Hey Mercedes Sewalong Day 2

Welcome to Day 2 of the Hey Mercedes Sewalong. If you need to catch up, head over to Day 1 to get started. Here’s a recap of what the sewalong will look like:

  • Day 1: Preparing the pattern, cutting the fabric and interfacing, and fusing the interfacing
  • Day 2 (that’s today): Sewing handles and handle connectors, and creating pockets
  • Day 3: Final assembly of bag

Please note: this sewalong is meant as an additional guide to the pattern instructions found in Windy City Bags; please read through pattern instructions in the book as well.

Handles

Making the handles for the bag is similar to making double fold bias binding. Start by taking one interfaced handle piece and fold in half, matching long sides, press in the centre, then unfold and bring those long, raw edges to meet in the centre, press in place, then fold again, matching long folded edges. Topstitch along both long edges about 1/8″ away from the edge. I like to increase my stitch length here for a smoother, neater look. Repeat with other handle to have 2 completed handles.

Handle Extenders

We’ll need 4 matching sets of handle extenders. Since you cut them in pairs, you should have 4 sets that match up quite well in mirror image. One you’ve paired them up, pin or use wonderclips to hold them sides together, and sew together, leaving the short straight edge unsewn. The book suggests that leaving a turning hole further up the curved edge may help turn the extender later, but I have a trick that will make turning these so easy, so just go ahead and see all the way around except the short straight edge at the bottom. You’ll want to follow the curve with your stitching, so take your time here. You may need to use smaller stitch lengths to get around corners nicely, and stop with your needle in the down position to lift your pressed foot and turn the fabric. Once you’ve sewn all 4 handle extenders, you’ll need to trim the seam allowance, and clip into the curves and notch around outer curves, as shown in the book. You could also just trim the seam allowance with pinking shears to speed this step up a bit. Watch this video to see how easy it is to turn the handle extenders. I used a spool of thread and a chopstick; you can use similar items from your sewing supplies too!

Hey Mercedes Sewalong Day 1

Welcome to Day 1 of the Hey Mercedes Sewalong! Feel free to check outthis post for details about a deal on getting the Windy City Bags book for the pattern.  For my Canadian readers, you may want to try Indigo or Connecting Threads, which both offer free Canadian shipping with minimum purchase

Windy City Bags: 12 Handbags And Totes Sewn With Structure And Style
If you’re new to sewalongs, you might be wondering what exactly a sewalong is. Basically, it’s like sewing with friends, all doing the same project, except you’re sewing at home and checking in online. What makes it fun is when everyone shares their progress and of course, the finished projects. Oh, and I can’t forget to mention the awesome prizes! Look for details on how to enter for prizes at the bottom of this post.
Here’s what the sewalong will look like over the next few days:

  • Day 1 (that’s today): Preparing the pattern, cutting the fabric and interfacing, and fusing the interfacing
  • Day 2: Sewing handles and handle connectors, and creating pockets
  • Day 3: Final assembly of bag
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Getting Started

Since this pattern is included in the pullout section of the Windy City Bags book, you won’t want to cut out the original paper pattern. You have several options:

  • Take the pattern to your local office store and have the pattern copied
  • Use your own home copier to copy the sections of the pattern you’ll need
  • Trace the pattern onto tissue paper or tracing paper (this may be the simplest/cheapest option)
  • Trace the pattern onto quilter’s templates (this is the option I chose)

I taped a couple template sheets together to get my piece long enough, and they’ll fold where I taped for easy storage. I used a permanent marker to copy the placement marks and the cutting instrcutions right on my templates. The other advantage to the clear templates, is that it helps to visualize pattern placement for fussy cutting.

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For the supplies, I’ve used quilting cotton, shapeflex 101, and Pellon Flex Foam for the foam interfacing.  If you want to learn more about selecting interfacing, I suggest taking Sara Lawson’s Craftsy class, you can learn more about it in my review of the class.  If you have a really special fabric you want to display, you’ll really only need enough for the front pocket piece, and then the rest of the exterior could coordinate with it.

I often write myself a list of what to cut from each material, but the book already has it laid out in that format, so I just followed along straight from the book. Once you’re done, go through the list one last time to make sure you’ve got everything. For cutting, I like to start with my interfacing. For this bag, the lining is all interfaced with shapeflex, so I cut my interfacing first, then fused it to my lining fabric, and then cut out my lining fabric – this helps save a bit of time by not having to trace the pattern onto my lining fabric. Make sure to cut on the fold. Some other people save cutting time by simply interfacing the entire yardage of the lining fabric, and then tracing and cutting both together; this option does save time, but it isn’t a very frugal method. You can also use the interfaced lining fabric as your pattern piece for when you cut the foam – this way you don’t have to fold the foam in half and it allows for more accurate cuts. For my exterior fabric, I used my clear templates, and this helped me visualize the design of my exterior fabric so I could have it just where I wanted.

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When I cut the handle extenders, I used the method suggested in the book, and folded the interfacing so I could cut and trace a mirror image set at once. I just pinned the folded interfacing, then traced and cut. I cut the interfacing, and fused it to my accent fabric, just like I did with my lining fabric, to skip the step of tracing the handle extender pieces onto the accent fabric.

If you like, you can secure the foam interfacing to the exterior fabric at this point. I find the Flex Foam, similar to the Soft and Stable, has a nap to it, so the fabric stays in place quite well. To secure the foam to the fabric, simply sew a basting stitch with 1/8″ seam allowance along all the edges. If you used fusible fleece, then you’ll want to fuse at this point instead of the basting stitch.

I highly recommend following the book’s suggestion and cutting the pocket trim on the bias, instead of a straight grain cut. It’s a small piece, so won’t “waste” a lot of fabric cutting on the bias. We’ll be using this piece on a curve, so the bias cut will allow us to place the trim along the curve nicely.

Once everything is cut and fused/basted, place it in a pretty pile and gather your matching hardware, thread, and zippers, and come back here for Day 2 of the sewalong to get started with pockets and handles.

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Prize Details

My awesome sponsor, Sitka Fabrics, is offering up a $10 gift certificate and a $25 gift certificate. Aurifil has also sent me some thread sets for prizes. There will be one “top prize” of one thread set and a $25 Sitka Fabrics gift certificate, and 3 random prize winners to receive the remaining 3 prizes: one winner of the $10 Sitka Fabrics credit, and two winners who will each receive an Aurifil thread set.
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To be eligible to win a prize, use #HeyMercedesSAL on Instagram to post a picture of your completed bag. You can also use this hashtag to share your progress – it’s so fun to see what everyone is up to. Just make sure your account isn’t private, otherwise I won’t be able to see your pictures. If you prefer, you can send me a picture of your completed bag; just upload it through my contact page. You have until March 31, 2016 to complete your Hey Mercedes bag for the contest. Contest open internationally.

Trying Something (Sorta) New-ish — February

www.seamofmypants.com

What does your brain need you to try?

I took on this challenge at the start of the year and didn’t quite get around to the English Paper Piecing I planned to learn for January. I just wasn’t motivated enough to make a bunch of hexies, because what will I do with hexies? And I spent most of the month in my doctor’s office anyway. She sends her regards.

This month, the theme was to try something tactile, like pottery, soap or candlemaking. I had really hoped to resurrect Patrick Swayze for one last dance around the pottery wheel, but alas! I had no clay to get dirty with and all of Montreal’s mud is frozen solid in February.

With pottery fantasies no longer being an option, I scaled back on the goal and cleaned up my act with something I had tried once before: Homemade Bath Salts.

Homemade bath salts -- www.seamofmypants.com

Ingredients

The setup here is very important. Even if you forget one of the ingredients and have to run out to the store after you’ve started, that’s better than forgetting to pour yourself a glass of Moscato. See how I’ve got wine but no milk powder?

So, for approximately 4 cups (1 litre) of this yummy me-time goodness, here’s what you’ll need:

  • 1.5 cups sea salt
  • 1.5 cups epsom salts
  • 0.5 cup powdered whole milk
  • 0.5 cup baking soda
  • 24 drops of essential oil (I made 3 separate batches: Lavender, Eucalyptus, and Rose)
  • Food colouring (Optional, but it keeps me from opening all the jars every time I want to take a bath.)
  • 1 large glass or ceramic bowl (No need to worry about food contamination because all of this stuff is ok to consume in small amounts.)
  • Mixing spoon or spatula (Did I really have to tell you this, as if you were planning to mix it with your thumb?)

Step 1: Pour the Moscato and take a few sips. (Pretty obvious!)

Step 1.5: Dash to the store for the powdered milk. My store was out of whole milk and I had to buy the skim crap. At that price, I want fat in my milk!! [Insert childish tantrum here.]

Homemade bath salts -- www.seamofmypants.com

Ingredients: Take 2

Step 2: Mix together the baking soda and milk powder until you run out of lumps to squash.

Step 3: Add epsom salts and mix well.

Step 4: Drink some more wine.

Step 5: This is where you get to play with colour theory. (Oops! this was supposed to be Step 2, but the disappearing Magic Moscato got me confused. Anyway, we can still make this work.) … Mix a bunch of your food colouring together until you get the nice pretty colour that lets you know at a glance which oils you put in your concoction. If you’re doing lavender scented salts, my sympathies; that shit will not come out with the right colour no matter what you do!

Step 6: Stir the dry mixture and the food colouring mixture together (makes no difference which one you did first) until the colour is more or less uniform. Do not add Moscato at this stage!

Homemade bath salts -- www.seamofmypants.com

All done! Brrrrrrrr…

Step 7: Add the dili… dele… deely… yummy smelzing essential oil to your misccature and stir it, baking sherrr that you don’t splim… slip… spill any.

Step 8: Salt it! So, after the room stops spinning, put the course sea salt in and mix it up.

Step 9: Fill up the air tight jars (the ones I conveniently forgot to mention ahead of time) and label them if you skipped the food colouring.

Step 10: Go outside in -12C, wearing a tank top and house slippers to photograph your … scratch that! It’s just my curse.

That’s pretty much it. Now, I’d love to stay and chat with you a little longer but I have a hot date with a tub of veeeery hot water… and maybe another glass, but who’s counting?

Marsha Law Sig2

 

PS. It’s ok if the cat drinks your bathwater. He’ll get over it after a few trips to the litter.

PPS. If the measurements are off, don’t blame me. It was the wine. But close enough is good enough.

Homemade bath salts -- www.seamofmypants.com

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Class Review – Mix & Match Clutch Bag Techniques


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If you follow me on Instagram or Facebook, you’re probably aware that I recently took the Mix & Match Clutch Bag Techniques Craftsy class taught by Janelle MacKay.  Today I’m sharing my review with you. I also have a discount to pass along (details at the bottom of this post).
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The Class

 This class includes patterns to make all the “mix and match” clutches, plus instructions on how to make them. Along with video instruction, there is a full text version on how to complete the bags. The class is way more than just a video tutorial though. I consider myself an intermediate-advanced bag maker, and I picked up so many tips for making bags, especially finishing tips. Here are the lessons covered in the class:
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I really enjoyed the fabric lessons Janelle gave; she talked about some fabric that is typically considered more difficult to work with, and she provided tips on how to use them in these bags. The first time I watched the class, I pretty much had my mouth gaping open in awe the whole time. The entire class wowed me. I really could not wait to get started making the clutches and trying out the new techniques I had learned.
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The first clutch I made from the class, and also the first turn lock I installed all by myself, using tips from the class. I used the asymmetrical flap and the trapezoid body front.

The Patterns

I really love the concept of these mix and match patterns. The class includes pattern pieces and instructions to make a virtually unlimited number of combinations for your clutch. You can choose from 3 different flap fronts: asymmetrical, pointed and rounded. You can also choose the body front: trapezoid, rectangular and pieced. In addition to those options, Janelle teaches how to make your own shape if you choose. The hardware options add even further to the uniqueness of your bag.  There are also several strap options for you to choose from, including wrist strap, shoulder strap, and metal chain. The construction of the clutches are identical, no matter which shape you choose. The lining of the clutch eliminates the need for a wallet with the bag. There are 3 card slots, a “lipstick” slot, a zippered pocket and a slip pocket.
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The Platform

I really have been enjoying Craftsy lately! This is the first time I’ve made a project along with a video, and it really felt like I was sewing along with the instructor. I liked being able to pause and back up, refer to my class materials, and even read questions from other participants. Craftsy really offers a lot of flexibility to access your classes. You can watch from the computer, or from a tablet or smart phone. There’s even a Craftsy app, which is my preferred way to access my classes. The app makes it easy to switch quickly between video and class materials. If you like, you can download individual lessons, so you can watch them offline as well. Craftsy is risk free too; if you don’t like the class, you can take advantage of their money back guarantee.
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The Instructor

Janelle MacKay designs patterns and hardware at Emmaline Bags. Her sense of humour is so endearing and really adds to the enjoyment of the class. As I mentioned before, these Craftsy classes really make it seem like you’re spending the day sewing with the instructor, so it’s important that the instructor is someone you’d want to spend the day sewing with! I found she had a relaxed demeanor that made it easy to learn from. The techniques she showed have already improved my bag making and I’m so grateful for the knowledge she shares with us in the class.
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Recommendation

I think this class is suitable for advanced beginners and up. Even very experienced bag makers would benefit from this class, if not just for the patterns it includes. I learned extra finishing touches, how to properly install a turn lock, how to add metal trims, how to get perfectly folded card slots, and so much more. I imagine I’ll be referring back to this class many times when I want refreshers for certain skills or techniques. When I made my second clutch, I enjoyed being able to skip to the parts I needed to refresh my memory on those steps.
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The second clutch I made from the class; this time using the pointed flap and rectangular front, with gold trim.

The Discount

Enjoy 50% off with this discount link, good through March 4, 2016. Update: that discount is over, but check the link anyway, there are often sales and it may be on sale again!
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Full disclosure: I bought this class for my own use and I’m now sharing my review with you. Because I’m a Craftsy affiliate, I was able to obtain a discount to share with my readers. This post contains affiliate links and I earn commission from sales made through these links. All opinions expressed here are my own. Thanks for your support!

If you’ve taken the class, I’d love to know what you thought. Or is it on your wishlist? Take advantage of the sale price and get making those clutches!

Sandra and Harriet

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Sandra Saddle Bag

Sandra is one of my unblogged bags from last year. This saddle bag is part of the Swoon Sewing Patterns Vintage Collection. I gave it a classic style with Jackie McFee’s Opposites Attract line (Sitka Fabrics) and large gold rings (Paccana). The pop of colour from the lining is Camelot’s Mixology Woven in Topaz (Sitka Fabrics)
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In addition to the interior zippered pocket, the bag has a front slip pocket with pretty dart tucks, secured by the flap. The flap is closed by a unique bottom tab with magnetic snap. I chose black vinyl for the gusset and tab and I think it completes the timeless look. This was one of the faster Swoon bags I’ve made and I would say it’s suitable for a confident beginner.


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Harriet Expandable Tote

Harriet is expandable! Each side opens wider with zippers. It’s also part of the Swoon Vintage Collection. This bag was definitely more involved than Sandra, but certainly worth the effort. I used a couple prints from Bonnie Christine’s line Winged (Dragonfly Fabric) and some matching vinyl. I also chose O rings (Emmaline Bags) instead of the suggested rectangle rings, mostly because I had them in the right finish; I think either shape works just fine.
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The main top opening is secured by a flap tab with magnetic snap. There is also an interior zippered pocket, and room to add another pocket if you like. The vinyl overlays and straps gave me a bit of trouble until I remembered to use my walking foot – why do I always forget?! Overall, I love the style of this practical tote.  I think this pattern is suitable for an intermediate bag maker.
The Swoon Sewing Patterns Vintage Collection offers really great value, even for Canadians with our not-so-great exchange at the moment. The per pattern price is really affordable, and I love having a variety of patterns to choose from in my pattern library. The collection concluded with Maisie Bowler Handbag, an adorable pattern that I’m itching to sew up. I’m not sure how long the collection will be available for purchase, but once you purchase the collection, all 12 patterns will be in your account for good. One thing I really like about Swoon Sewing Patterns, is that you can always access and download your purchased patterns, for an unlimited amount of times. You can also take note if any revisions have been made on a pattern before you tackle a new project.
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Have you made a bag from the Vintage Collection? Which one is your favourite?

One Thimble Issue 10

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Once again, I’m thrilled to join Pattern Revolution’s One Thimble Blog Tour! This time, I’m sharing my experience with the Swoodson Says pattern, Adventure Flags.

One Thimble is a digital sewing magazine, or ezine, and the issues contain PDF patterns, tutorials, sewing articles, tips, and lots of great content. You can see my previous posts about One Thimble here, here, and here. Issue 10 is looking to be the best one yet. I’m blown away by all the amazing contributors and patterns it has. I’m also excited to announce that I am a contributor in this issue as well! I’ll include more details about that in a bit. You can enter to win a copy of One Thimble Issue 10 at the bottom of this post.

One Thimble Issue 10 available now!
One Thimble Issue 10 available now!

Adventure Flags

This unique pattern by Swoodson Says includes

  • 9 picture & 2 text appliques
  • triangular and rectangular bunting
  • Geometric wall hanging
  • triangle pennant
  • working with different textiles

It is available as a stand alone pattern, or included in Issue 10 of One Thimble.

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As soon as I saw this pattern, I knew immediately that my kids would love it. I was right, and they were more involved with this project than most others. They helped pick fabrics, felt colours, and, most importantly, placement of the flags in the buntings. We all thought they would make perfect decor for birthday parties!
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The appliques are all cut out of felt and I used freezer paper as the pattern suggests. This was my first time using freezer paper and I found it so easy and helpful to cut those intricate shapes out. I couldn’t imagine tracing them all individually onto the felt and then cutting out.

I really enjoyed the mix of fabrics and textures used for this project. I used felt and quilting cotton as the pattern suggests, but I also used a natural canvas muslin for the back of each flag, which really gave them a good weight and body. I think the natural canvas would have worked for the front as well.

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This was a very different project for me, and I’m enjoying continuing with my theme of trying new things this year. I cheated a bit with the compass applique and just used fabric paint instead for the letters. I think it looks just as nice.
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The pattern was very easy to follow and I think this would be a suitable project for even the greenest of beginners.
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As for my contribution, I created a tutorial for this reverse applique pillow. I call it Hello With Love. I envisioned it to be a treasured gift for grandparents, but I’ll have to make at least another one, because I love this one too much to part with. I show how to turn kids’ hand-prints into lasting mementos. I hope you enjoy the tutorial as much I did creating it.


Hop along on the tour and enter to win!

February Sales

This post contains affiliate links

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Check the post on the Hey Mercedes Sew Along for a fabric discount and a deal on the Windy City Bags book.

Have you tried creativebug? Just one price for unlimited access to classes all month! Start your free trial today!


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10% off all designer cottons! There are so many beautiful prints by Michael Miller, Robert Kaufman, Riley Blake, Tula Pink, Timeless Treasures, etc. Perfect time to stock up! Use code designer10 at checkout.


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Did you know there’s a standing discount code for Happy Okapi readers to use at Blue Calla? Save 10% on sewing patterns with code OKAPI10

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I reviewed Sara Lawson’s Building Better Bags Craftsy Class and have a discount to offer. Read the review for the special discount link.