Thanks for joining us as we continue with the Blue Calla Iris Convertible Shoulder Bag sewalong. Here’s a recap of the schedule:

• Day 1  – Fabric, interfacing, and hardware selection and gathering. Printing of pattern, and cutting and fusing fabric and interfacing.
• Day 2 –  (that’s today!) We begin sewing the bag.
• Day 3  – Final assembly and completion of bag

A note about this sewalong: this is not meant to replace the pattern’s instructions. You will likely need to refer to the pattern for some steps.

I like to start my bags by making the straps. I don’t know why, I guess I just like having one part completed early on. I used vinyl for my shoulder straps. I started by drawing a line down the vertical center on the wrong side of the straps. Then I used my wonder tape (called DST in the pattern) on either side of the line – one piece of wonder tape with backing is shown here:

Once wonder tape is in place, fold each outer edge in toward the center line and press down. I used my Hera marker to make a firm crease in the vinyl. Fold again, to match both folded edges, making the piece now 1″ wide. Use clips to hold folded edges together. Stitch first along joined edge at about 1/8″ seam allowance with a longer stitch length, then repeat along remaining edge; complete these steps for both shoulder straps. Set aside for now. A note about sewing vinyl: if your stitch length is too short, the stitching will perforate the vinyl and make it tear easily; if you want to reinforce your stitching, make sure your backstitch goes through the same stitch holes as the first stitching, or sew a separate row of stitching.

If you’re using fabric for your straps, follow these instructions, but omit the wonder tape, and press with an iron with each step involving folding.

Repeat same process for adjustable strap, except creating 1.5″ wide strap.

I also like to make my connectors at this point. As mentioned in Day 1, I like to simply sew a 6″ long strap and cut in half. The connectors are made the same way as the straps: folding in outer edges to meet in the center, then folding again, to match folded edges, and stitching along each long edge.

For my bag, I have one pocket. If you decided to add a second pocket, just repeat this process to create an additional pocket. To start the exterior of the pocket, we’ll be creating a pocket. Place exterior and lining B pieces right sides together and stitch together along the top edge. Turn so they are wrong sides together and topstitch along the top edge (I like a longer stitch length for topstitching). Place assembled piece on top of a middle panel A, matching up bottom and sides, and baste stitch along each side.

Pin or clip one side panel G to each side of the assembled pocket, attach the other 2 side panel Gs to the remaining middle panel A. I do this step all at the same time, as I find it makes it go quicker.

Press each seam allowance toward the side panels and topstitch the seams.

The next step is creating the flap. For my pocket flap, I used vinyl for the “exterior” and interfaced quilting cotton for the “lining”. To install the magnetic snap, make a small mark about 1.5″ from the bottom of the flap piece, centered side to side on the “lining” flap.

Use the washer that comes with the magnetic snap to mark slits, matching the mark you made as mentioned above in the center of the washer. I like to use my seam ripper to cut tiny slits. You want to make sure the slits aren’t too big. You’ll also need to reinforce the back of the lining fabric with a scrap piece of foam, fleece, or peltex for the magnetic snaps to go through as well so your material doesn’t tear through.

Once your snap is installed, place both flap pieces right sides together and sew along all sides except the top edge. Trim seam allowance and turn right side out, finger press if using vinyl, or press with iron, topstitch. Place assembled flap over assembled exterior panel, aligning between side panel seams, over top of pocket. Baste on place. Now we need to insert the female half of the magnetic snap. This one’s a bit trickier! First we need to find the right spot to place it, by marking the male snap reaches on the pocket, then placing our other marks and slits, as above, on the pocket. To insert the snap, we’ll need to reach up from the bottom of the pocket and turn it part way inside out to flatten the prongs. Don’t forget to reinforce the snap with scrap interfacing.

Now attach the bottom (vinyl) panel to the assembled panels. We are matching the top of the bottom to the bottom of the top, hahaha! Super simple, right? Just make sure the same width is being matched up and you’ll be fine. Sew in place and topstitch if desired.

Now it’s time to cut out the sew-in interfacing or fusible fleece. Use the assembled panels to trace your interfacing or fleece and cut each out. You can also cut out the top band C at this step; I only interfaced 2 of my top bands. Baste sew-in interfacing at a 1/4″ seam allowance, or fuse the fleece in place, being careful to avoid the iron on areas with vinyl. You can either leave the area over the vinyl unfused if you’re using fusible fleece, or choose to baste it at a 1/4″ seam allowance. I just left mine unfused and it doesn’t really make a difference as long as you catch the fleece when you’re sewing the bottom at the later step.

To pleat the exterior panels we need to transfer the pleat marks from the pattern piece to the back of our panels. I like to make a small cut in the pattern at the pleat marks, then just use my marker to mark at the correct spot. Because we want our pleats to be mirror images, we’ll need to flip the pattern piece once to create the marks. If you’re looking at the panel, with wrong side facing up, the pattern should face down when you’re transferring pleat marks on the left side, and face up when you’re transferring pleat marks on the right side.

PSA: I love Wonder Clips, BUT, I find pins work best for pleats, especially smaller ones such as these, otherwise I find the fabric shifts too much as you’re trying to sew the pleat in place. With the wrong side up, starting on the left side, bring the outermost pleat mark inward to the pleat mark next to it, matching up pleat mark and pin in place. Then take the next pleat mark and bring it toward the center to the remaining pleat mark on the left side, pin in place. Repeat with right side of panel, bringing pleat marks toward the center of the panel. Repeat with other assembled panel.

Machine baste in place.

Take a top band C that has interfacing and place right sides together on top edge of the assembled pleated panel, matching wide edges, pin or clip in place. You will have a small triangle of excess in each corner because of the pleating, which you can trim off. Stitch in place, press seam allowance toward top band and top stitch seam at 1/8″ seam allowance.

Repeat with remaining assembled pleated panel and interfaced top band. Place all your pieces in a pretty pile and come back tomorrow!

Welcome, and thanks for joining me as we make this fun and fabulous bag! I hope you’ll find this sewalong motivating, informative, and enjoyable! Here’s what you can expect over the next few days:

• Day 1  (that’s today!)- Fabric, interfacing, and hardware selection and gathering. Printing of pattern, and cutting and fusing fabric and interfacing.
• Day 2 – We begin sewing the bag.
• Day 3  – Final assembly and completion of bag

Let’s get started! If you haven’t already, go grab a copy of the PDF, and use code OKAPI10 to save 10% (on any pattern, any time!)

You’ll also need to gather your supplies. For my bag, I’m using vinyl for the bottom and shoulder straps, and cotton for the rest. I interfaced my lining and pockets with Pellon Shapeflex 101 (fusible cotton woven) and used fusible fleece for my exterior. I wouldn’t recommend foam interfacing for this bag, since we’re pleating the panels. The pattern suggests using a sew-in batting or duck canvas, which will work too of course. I found some amazing oversized rings at Emmaline Bags and I’m using 1″ O-rings instead of 5/8″ D-rings. If you can’t find hardware to match the requirements exactly, that’s ok, I’ll address that when we get to cutting.

You’ll want to make you print at 100% and measure the test square to make sure it’s an accurate printing. I usually just print the pattern pieces out and read the instructions from my tablet; this way I save big on printer ink. You may want to print the pattern pieces that are cut on fold twice, or trace those pieces onto another piece of paper, cut, and tape together at the fold line. I find this helps me get more accurate cuts and lets me visualize my fabric placement a bit better than cutting or tracing on the fold.

Before I get started cutting, I organize my fabrics and pattern pieces and make a small chart for myself. I’m using 3 different exterior fabrics, so the chart helps me keep everything in order and I can make sure all my pieces are cut by checking them off as I go. Here’s mine:

You’ll note the * next to D ring tab in my chart, that’s because I’m lazy so I try to find ways to make bag making faster and easier, so I actually just cut a 6″ x 3″ piece and sew to make the tab as directed, then cut in half to end up with 2 tabs the same size as in the pattern. You may also notice I interface more than called for in the pattern, and that’s just my personal preference; so feel free to interface the lining, as I do, or leave it off, as the pattern does, either way it won’t make a difference in assembly of the bag. For example, I cut the interfacing for the slip pocket the same size as the pocket, instead of half. I just like a bit more body to my bags, so I tend to add interfacing even where patterns don’t necessarily call for it. 

If you couldn’t find the same hardware as listed, you may need to adjust your straps. For example if you only have a 1″ slide and swivel clips, you may need to make your strap at a finished width of 1″ instead of 1.5″ or for your D ring tabs, you’ll need to make sure your finished width will fit in the D rings you have. To make a strap or tab, cut it 4x times wide as desired finished width.

You’ll need to figure out what length you want for your adjustable strap. A good way to estimate is to take your tape measure and drape across your shoulder as if it were a strap for a cross body bag, then measure how long the strap would need to be: I cut mine at 55″, keeping in mind that a few inches will be folded up to attach hardware.

Now that you’ve got your cutting list sorted out, go ahead and start cutting. I like to start with my Sf101, and fuse that to the pieces that will be interfaced with it, then cutting the fabric out around the interfacing: refer to my laziness above, this allows me to trace my pieces a few less times.

You might be wondering why we aren’t cutting a lot of the sew-in or fleece at this point, but it’s coming tomorrow, so don’t worry, we haven’t forgotten it yet.

Once you’ve cut all your fabric and interfacing, if you haven’t fused as you cut, you’ll need to do that now. Set all your pieces in a pretty pile and come back tomorrow to start sewing!

I’d love to see your progress! Use #HappyOkapiBlueCallaSAL on Instagram to share.

This post contains affiliate links

Save big for the Blue Calla Iris Sewalong! Now through November 9, the Iris Convertible Shoulder Bag is 50% off, to make it easy for you to join in the sewalong and win prizes!

http://bluecallapatterns.com/products/the-iris-convertible-shoulder-bag-pdf-sewing-pattern

Save up to 50% on Craftsy Classes right now. The new Building Better Bags by Sara Lawson is on sale too! http://www.shareasale.com/m-pr.cfm?merchantID=29190&userID=1134409&productID=599176257

Sale of the week: 15% off notions with the code notion15! Check out all the little things in store!

http://funkymonkeyfabrics.com/

Fabric Spark has some really wonderful fabric on sale in their sale section right now! Fill your cart and get free shipping with orders over $125!

http://fabricspark.com/collections/promotions

There are 2 different discount codes over at Purse Palooza for Mrs. H patterns right now. You’ll have to read this post and this post to find the codes; I can’t do all the work for you 😉

Since my last free pattern roundup, I’ve come across many more excellent ones, so I decided it was time for another roundup! Here is an assortment of free patterns I’ve found. I haven’t made all of them, but many of the designers featured here are my favourites. Free patterns are a great way to try out a designer before you purchase one of their patterns. Many designers have their own style of instructions, pattern layout and techniques, so try some out and see what your preferences are. Free patterns are also great for when you’re starting out; they give you a chance to get your feet wet before you invest a lot in the PDF world. Also, if you haven’t already, make sure to go grab a copy of Blue Calla’s free Gerbera Wristlet PDF pattern, right  here on Happy Okapi!

It’s no secret I’m a huge fan of Swoon Sewing Patterns. Whether you’re new to making bags, or you’re experienced, this pattern will delight you! It’s a great way to try out different interfacing, and if  hardware intimidates you, then you can skip the magnetic snap. You’re even welcome to sell bags made with this pattern!

I love that this pattern gives you so many options! You can make it very beginner friendly, by omitting the piping, and using cottons and a magnetic snap, or you can challenge yourself by using vinyl, adding piping and using a turn lock. How about a quilted flap to mix things up? I think this would be a great quick gift to make for a friend’s birthday, or just as a pick-me-up when you’re looking for something fun to sew.

Anna at Noodlehead always has such elegant, designs, and this Trail Tote is no exception. It comes in 2 different sizes and has an adjustable strap and exterior zippered pocket. You can whip one of these up on a whim! Make your own piping for an extra special touch.

Thread Riding Hood is a Canadian blogger with lots of great patterns and tutorials. The Time Warp Tote is a pattern she worked on for Cloud 9 Fabrics, and really looks like a fun sew. The pattern format is not her typical style, and actually doesn’t include any pattern pieces to print out, so if you’re out of ink, but desperate to sew up a bag (don’t tell me you’ve never been there, lol!) this project can still work for you. I also like that it uses a different weight of fabric than quilting cotton, so we can try out some other fabrics in our stash that have been feeling neglected.

What cute little bag! It’s packed with features too! You get to try out  installing a turn lock, adding piping to a bag, elastic pockets, overlays, and darts. I like the idea of pairing the main print with a solid like Sara did with her sample bag. I bet it would look great with Essex Linen and a fun floral.

This is a simple versatile pattern that can be made exactly as described in the pattern, or easily changed to suit your style or needs. I personally love large casual bags like this, especially with tons of pockets inside so I have some semblance of organization inside the bag. Check out the tester photos for some ideas on how you can customize your own. This would also make a great bag for a print you just can’t get enough of and are looking for a project to show it off.

Do you have some bamboo handles you’ve been itching to put to use? Here is a super quick and easy tutorial from Janelle at Emmaline for just that! I really love the simple construction method in the tutorial. My thrift store has a craft section and I always see handles like this there. You can really change the look of this bag depending on the fabric you use – dress it up or down. I think it would make an adorable bag for a girls’ night out!

Now the only question is: which one to make first? I hope you’ve enjoyed this roundup. Follow me on Pinterest, for more tutorials, patterns and techniques.

Introducing the Primrose Satchel, the newest pattern from Blue Calla. I had a chance to test out this pattern and I’m thrilled with it! Make sure to read through to the bottom for discount details!

There are so many features packed into this bag! It has an adjustable strap, making it able to be worn cross body or carried on the shoulder. The back has an exterior zippered pocket.

The pattern calls for a slip pocket inside the main compartment.

I love bags with flaps, because we can use a feature fabric and really showcase it. I used a directional fabric, and used the same focus for my interior and exterior fabric, so I just flipped my pattern piece to make sure my print went in the right direction on the inside. Like many of the Blue Calla patterns, this bag also features pleats, and I think they add such a nice touch to the bag.

The pattern calls for a turn lock, and you can even get a hardware kit for the Primrose Satchel from my favourite Hardware supplier: Emmaline Bags! I had a chance to use the new Half Moon Magnetic Edge Clasp from Emmaline, and I’m in love! It’s simple to install, but has a big impact beyond a simple magnetic snap.

This pattern is a PDF that you print yourself. I love PDF patterns because I don’t have to worry about messing up the original pattern because I can always print it again. I like to read instructions on my tablet while I’m sewing, so I only print the pattern pieces. The instructions consist of ample full colour photos; with a layout of 2 columns per page. This is one of the easiest bags I’ve made in a while, and I think it would be great for a confident beginner. I love the versatility with the flap and the closure options, and you can add piping too, depending on which closure method you choose. The hardest part of this pattern is placing the zippered pocket at the back of the bag, pay careful attention not to place it too high, or you will have a difficult time topstitching at your final step. If zippers scare you, leave it off, the bag will still be really nice without it, and you can try on your next one.  I really like the method of closing this bag, leaving no seam to hand stitch (my sewing pet peeve). I recommend this pattern for anyone looking for a quick, easy sew with satisfying results.

• The gorgeous metallic X’s are part of the Cotton + Steel basics from Fabric Spark.
• For the gusset, strap and top bands, I used Yarn Dyed Essex Linen, also from Fabric Spark
• The flap and lining are part of the Honeymoon collection by Sarah Watts, I got mine from the Fat Quarter Shop using my gift certificate I won as part of my Bag of the Month Club prize
• The Half Moon Magnetic Edge Clasp is an exclusive item from Emmaline Bags
• For interfacing, I used Pellon Craft Fuse on my exterior and lining; however, for my next Primrose, I will use Pellon Shapeflex 101 for the exterior and stick with craft fuse for the lining for nicer pleats and firm body.
• For the flap, I used one layer of Pellon Flex Foam, available at Funky Monkey Fabrics

This beautiful Primrose featuring Anna Maria Horner’s Loominous collection is made by Kristy of Rock Baby Scissors

This stunner, using Alison Glass’ Ex Libris, was made by Sheri of Lil’ Munkee Designs

You can get the pattern at the Blue Calla site. As always, you can use promo code OKAPI10 to save 10% on any Blue Calla pattern, even sale priced patterns!

UPDATE: Unfortunately, the Primrose Satchel pattern has been retired. The Lilac Mini Messenger will achieve a similar look (minus the pleating) and it’s free! Click here to download the pattern.

I’m really enjoying seeing all the completed Companion Carpet Bags from everyone! There is still some time to join in and win a prize. Head on over to the Handmade by Mrs. H blog for all the details and sewalong.

Now it’s time to announce my next sewalong! Celine at Blue Calla has some really fresh and original designs, and I’m happy to share the news that my next sewalong will be one of her patterns: the Iris Convertible Bag!

Iris is a medium-large sized bag that can be worn as a shoulder bag, or as a cross-body bag. The bag is loaded with pockets and has a few different options to really customize for your needs. You can also choose different fabric types for parts of this bag, like a vinyl bottom for example.

Head on over to BlueCallaPatterns.com to pick up your PDF copy of Iris, which has been marked down to 50% off right now for a special sewalong price! Don’t forget to use discount code OKAPI10 to save an additional 10%, and you can use that code on any of the patterns while you’re there. Gather all your supplies and join me back here on October 9 for a weekend of sewing. You’ll have plenty of time to finish to be eligible to be entered for the fantastic prize. If you need some help getting supplies, check out my Canadian Sewing Links tab for some great resources.

Enter your completed bag for a chance to win 2 patterns of your choice from Blue Calla and a $25 Gift Certificate to Funky Monkey Fabrics! To enter, post a picture of your completed bag on Instagram with #HappyOkapiBlueCallaSAL
or you can send me a picture of your bag through my contact page. You’ll have until November 8 to complete your bag and enter it. The winner will be randomly selected. Be sure to follow my facebook page for updates.

• Day 1  – Fabric, interfacing, and hardware selection and gathering. Printing of pattern, and cutting and fusing fabric and interfacing.
• Day 2 – We begin sewing the bag.
• Day 3  – Final assembly and completion of bag