Here we are again! I really challenged myself with the turn lock yesterday! Challenges are nice sometimes though.  I’ve updated Day 2 with some tips for installing the turn lock. 

If you missed it, here’s Day 1, and Day 2.
Let’s follow along with Lisa as she moves on with hers. 

You made it to day 3 – congrats!  Today we’re going to work on the card slot pockets and the zipper pockets in preparation for day 4 when we’ll be putting it all together.

Let’s start with the card slot pockets.  You’ll need your two long pieces of interfaced fabric.  Flip it over so that the interfaced side is facing you and the pretty side is down. You’ll need to mark your folding lines with a water soluble or erasable sewing marker or tailor’s chalk.  I use Frixion pens which are fabulous. The ink disappears with the steam of your iron!
Use your marking tool of choice to mark the folding lines starting from the left side of the fabric – 2.5”, 1.75”, 2.25”, 1.75”, 2.25”, 1.75”.  There will be an extra piece on the right side – don’t worry about that. You should have six lines.

Now flip your fabric over so the pretty side is toward you and the first line is on the right side.  This accordion style folding seems to vex people a bit so go slow, take your time. Fold the fabric back on the first line (pretty side to pretty side). Finger press. Then fold to the back (interfaced side to interfaced side) on the next line. Do this two more times and you will have formed the three slot pockets.  Pin in place so they don’t shift and press. Repeat with the other long piece.

Tip: Here’s a video from Janelle of Emmaline making the folds for the pocket.

Once you’ve pressed the folds, you can remove the pins.  Take the pockets back to your sewing machine and top stitch along the top edge of each pocket about 1/8” from the edge.  Refold the pockets and stay stitch along each side about 1/8” from the raw edge.  Don’t stitch any further in or your stitching could show in your finished wallet.

After you’ve stay stitched the pockets it’s time to trim them up.  Trim off the long, unfolded edge on each one so the pocket is 4 ½ inches by 8 inches. At this point put your two sets of card slots together, pretty side to pretty side and sew a ¼” seam along the bottom edge.  Make sure that your pockets are facing outwards from the seam. Your finished piece will be 8” wide by 8.5” tall.

Now it’s time to make your long pockets into 12 card slots by sewing a line straight down the middle of the pocket.  Use a marker to draw your line for accuracy. You may also want to double stitch this line to reinforce the pocket seam.

Take the 8”x8.5” rectangle without interfacing and put it pretty side up.  Put the card slot pockets pretty side down on top of it.  Sew the top and bottom seams ONLY, turn and press. Now top stitch all the way around and you’re done with this step! Yes, you will have raw edges on each side – it’s okay…trust me.

For the zipper pocket I highly recommending zipper tabs to keep the zipper tape out of the seam area but this is a personal choice.  There are lots of great zipper tab tutorials online.  I use 2 x 2 inch pieces of fabric folded like double bias tape and wrap each end of my zipper. This is optional though – you can use just a plain, regular old zipper without tabs for your zip pocket.

Put one of your pocket linings (smaller pieces) pretty side up on the table.  Lay the zipper on top, edges flush.  You can pin or clip here.  I use double sided tape (Wondertape) to keep the zipper from slipping around.  It’s amazing for zippers.  Place one outside pocket piece pretty side down on top of the zipper forming a zipper sandwich (lining, zipper, outside pocket), and sew with a ¼” seam along the top edge.  If you’re having trouble getting around your zipper, sew up a bit and then move the zipper pull down past your stitching.

Flip both your pieces away from the zipper teeth, press and topstitch.  Repeat this process on the other side.  If you need to, clip your zipper ends so they are flush with the edge of the fabric at this point.

Push the two lining pieces together (right side to right side), and the two outside pieces together (right side to right side).  You will have a long rectangle with the zipper in the middle.  Before you begin to sew – open your zipper at least half way.  DON’T FORGET THIS.  Really, don’t…you’ll be happier. Pinch the zipper tape and tabs if you did them towards the pocket outside fabric and pin or clip all around.

Now use a ¼” seam and sew around three edges starting at the right top of the lining and going around the outside pieces and pack up to the left corner of the lining.  Do not sew across the bottom of the lining – this will be closed later in the construction.

Turn everything right side out and push the lining inside. Yes, the bottom will be open but don’t worry – we’ll close this later…I promise. Put your pockets aside ready for Day 4 when we’ll be putting everything together! 

Tomorrow we finish the wallet, leaving Day 5 for optional straps! We’re almost there! Make sure to share your progress on social media so we can all see! Use #HappyOkapiNCWSAL 

Are you ready to go for Day 2? If not, there’s still time to catch up. Read all the details in Day 1’s post, here. Lisa is back with more great experience and tips. I’d love to see your progress! Share your pics using #HappyOkapiNCWSAL.

Here’s Lisa:
Welcome to Day 2 of the NCW sew-along!  Today we’re going to tackle the flap and main body panel of the wallet.
Grab all your beautifully interfaced A, B and D fabric pieces and let’s get started. You’ll also need your Peltex piece C for this step.
Flap: Put your flap pieces pretty sides together and sew all the way around the curved edge with a ¼” seam – leave the bottom (straight edge) open for turning. A quarter inch quilting foot works great for this but if you don’t have one, find the quarter inch mark on your regular sewing machine foot to make sure your seams are as accurate as possible.  The NCW uses ¼” seams throughout construction and it’s important to maintain these accurately so the finished pieces go together nicely.

To get a nice, smooth curve, clip the curves with little v-notches. You can clip right up to, but not through, the stitch line.  Turn and press. Use a chopstick or smoother to get those rounded corners all the way out as your press.

If you are using an accent border you can prepare that now.  This, in my opinion, is optional.  I’ve seen lots of beautiful NCWs done without the border accent – just topstitched all the way around the flap.  You can also add piping in the step above as another decorative finish.  
To make the border piece fuse the Peltex piece C to the wrong side of the fabric border (piece B). At this point you’re going to clip the fabric along all the curves and corners.  Clip close to but not right up to the edges of the Peltex for a nice, professional finish. The pattern recommends double sided tape (Wondertape is great). I prefer to use a ¼” fusible tape at this step because it holds better for me.  ¼” light weight Steam-a-seam works great for this.  Just iron strips along both edges of your Peltex border piece, remove the paper backing, fold over the fabric and iron in place.  If you iron under and up over the Peltex the fabric should be nice and tight as you go.

Because I like a firmer wallet, at this point I add another piece of Peltex into the flap. I usually trace around the flap I’ve made and cut the Peltex about ¼ inch inside my tracing line. Then I slip it inside the flap through the back opening.  I don’t use fusible Peltex because it will often get a wrinkled look when the wallet flap is bent later.

Line up your accent piece with your flap and topstitch 1/8” from both edges of the flap accent.  An edge stitching or top stitching foot is great for this if you have one.  Go slow, take your time and it will look fantastic.  When you’re done, sit back and admire your awesomeness.  Sometimes, when I do this, I think I am a fussy cutting goddess.  Other times, I wonder if I may be developing vision problems in my old age.  
I give myself a 7/10 on this one…lol! <—Hey Lisa! Don’t be so hard on yourself, it looks fantastic!

Time to add your twist lock.  The instructions for these vary by manufacturer so it’s best to look up specific instructions for your particular lock.  Generally speaking you’re going to cut the hole in the centre bottom of your flap and attach your hardware. On the main body part you will attach the twist part.  Be sure to fuse a small piece of peltex where the lock will attach first.  Remember that your twist lock goes on the body side OPPOSITE where your flap is attached to the body. 

Update: Here is a tutorial from the Emmaline Blog on how to install a turn lock.  I’ve also heard that using your rivet press or seam ripper works well for creating the hole.

Now get ready to attach the flap to the body.

Brief interruption.  I like to attach my wrist strap and cross body strap anchors at this point.  To make anchors like these you need two pieces of 2”x2 ½” fabric.  Fold in half length-wise, and open.  Fold each side towards the middle and then fold the whole piece in half.  You will end up with two mini straps 2 ½” by ½” wide.  You can top stitch the edges at this point if you want.  Take a small ½” d-ring and loop the strap through it. Secure the D ring with a line of stitching. 
There is also another great strap anchor tutorial on the Emmaline blog if you’re looking for another way to attach your wrist and shoulder straps. Straps are optional but make the wallet more versatile in my opinion. 

Back to the body and flap.  Put your exterior body fabric pretty side up. Make sure the twist lock is at the bottom.  Lay the finished flap wrong side up, centred at the top of the main body piece.  This is where I add my strap anchors.  I put the unfinished bottoms flush with the edge of the flap and body just inside the edge of the flap. The D rings will be towards you.

Sandwich the other piece of the main body pretty side down on top of the flap and secure. The pattern says to leave a 4” opening. I leave an 8.25” opening for turning because I like to insert another piece of Peltex in the main body after turning.  Stitch with a ¼” all the way around, leaving your opening, clip, and then pull the flap out through the opening and get everything right side out again.  Press.  At this point I insert another piece of 8×8 inch Peltex into the opening left for turning, centred in the main body.  It adds some additional firmness to the wallet.  Turn under the opening edges ¼” on both pieces and top stitch around the entire body piece – closing up your turning hole.

And you’re done Day 2! Put your body piece aside for Day 4.  Tomorrow we’ll work on constructing the card slot and zippered pockets.

Wow! I’m amazed at how this is coming together! We’re almost halfway there now, make sure to come back tomorrow and share your progress on social media.

Are you ready for Day 1 of the Necessary Clutch Wallet Sew-along? I’m going to be following right along with you, and my friend Lisa is sharing her experience making this staple in the PDF pattern world. The Necessary Clutch Wallet, otherwise known as the NCW by its adoring fans, is a stylish wallet that carries your cell phone, cards, cheques, cash and coins, and even has a little room left over. By the end of this week, we’ll all have beautiful finished projects to show off! Plus, there’s a prize! Janelle of Emmaline Sewing Patterns and Purse Supplies has generously offered up a $20 Emmaline Bags store credit to a randomly selected participant who completes the wallet. I’ve tried to make it easy to enter, choose any of these options: 

• Post a picture of your completed NCW on Facebook using #HappyOkapiNCWSAL, make sure the post is public so I can see it; it can be on your business page or personal page

• Post a picture of your completed NCW on Instagram using #HappyOkapiNCWSAL, make sure the post is public so I can see it.
• Email me a picture of your completed NCW
• Post a link of a picture of your completed NCW in the comments of the DAY 5 blog post

You only have to choose one way to enter, and multiple entries will only be counted once. Entries must be submitted by June 30, 2015.

If you haven’t yet purchased this fabulous pattern you can do so at Emmaline Sewing Patterns and Purse Supplies, and make sure to use code CANUCK20 to save 20% on the pattern for this Sew-along, valid until June 30, 2015.
Once you have your pattern in hand it’s time to print it out and select your fabrics!

Materials needed for this project:

•  1 fat quarter for exterior fabric
  
•  1 fat quarter for interior fabric
•  ½ yard for pocket fabric
•  2 yards 20” wide fusible interfacing (medium to lightweight depending on your preferences – see below about interfacing choices)
•   Peltex ultra firm stabilizer (fusible on one side is great)
  
•   Disappearing marking pen for sewing (or chalk) – I use and love Frixion pens
  
•   Rotary cutting mat, rotary cutter and large (24” ruler)
  
•   10” zipper to match pocket fabric
•   Twist lock or magnetic snap
•   Double sided soluble tape (Wondertape or equivalent)
  
•   Coordinating thread

I like to keep a cutting chart for the NCW with all my fabrics and what I’ll need to cut from each.  Because I often use 3-4 fabrics in each wallet, plus interfacing, it’s a great way to keep track of everything.  I check off each item as they are cut so I don’t miss anything.

Once you’ve selected your fabric, it’s time to cut.  If you’ve printed the PDF pattern you can use the paper prints for cutting around. If you’re going to do any fussy cutting, you might also consider tracing Pieces A, B and D onto sew through quilters template material or see through plastic cutting boards you can buy at the dollar store.  This makes it a lot easier to clearly see your design and placement for your wallet.  It can assist you to create that great focal point on the front of your wallet as well. If you think you’ll be making many of these, you might want to order the acrylic templates available for the pattern, making it easier and faster to cut, including any fussy cutting you might want to do. 
Interfacing tends to be a very personal choice for this wallet.  The pattern calls for medium weight interfacing on the flap and body, light weight on the pockets and card slots. My personal preference is for a firmer wallet.  I use Pellon SF101 on all my interfaced pieces and add another piece of peltex in the flap and centre part of the body which you’ll see in day 2.  I have also used Craft-fuse 808 throughout for a firmer wallet. Experiment to find the blend of interfacings you prefer.

Once you have all your fabrics and interfacings cut out.  Stand back, admire your pile and turn on your iron.  We’re going to be fusing all our interfacing next!  Time to get a quick drink before slaving over that hot iron…

When fusing interfacing, start with a pressed fabric piece.  Place the fabric wrong-side up and interfacing glue side down.  Fuse with a hot steam iron.  I then flip my piece over and make sure to get out any wrinkles that may have shown up.

Once you’ve fused all your interfacing you’re done with day one!  Congratulations.  On Day 2 we’ll be working on the flap and body.

Thank you so much Lisa! Looks like I have my work cut out for me, ha! (I’m hilarious, I know). I’d love to see everyone else’s progress along the way! Share with #HappyOkapiNCWSAL. See you back here tomorrow!

If you have kids in school, you may be looking a way to offer a small token of your appreciation to their teachers as the school year comes to a close. I’ve made a small round up of quick sews for teacher gifts.

Oh, and I almost forgot to announce the winner of the giveaway. Check the bottom of this post to find out if you won!

I’m loving this wonderfully cliche apple fabric from Satin Moon Quilted Garden, and I thought it would make a perfect lunch bag. Teachers often don’t have time to leave school for lunch, so need to pack a lunch. Why not have it in style? I followed my own free tutorial, found here. 

I started making these cozies a little over a year ago, and I have so much fun making them. There are so many ways to make them. Here is another apple one, this time the fabric is from Stay Home Fabrics. I make mine with snaps. I’ve seen others use buttons, and some even crochet them. They’re a fun way to brighten a day, and if you add a reusable cup and a gift card to a local coffee shop, it really completes the gift.

I was first given one of these a couple of years ago, and I love mine! It’s so convenient when you have your hands full, and need to keep your keys ready. 

Thread Riding Hood’s Sunny Glasses Case is a wonderful pattern and so useful. There is even a printable card to go along with it that your child can colour in!

Sometimes we all like a fancy little gift. I think the Swoon Coraline Clutch fits the bill nicely. You could make it fun and they could use it as a marker bag for the classroom, or you could dress it up for her to use for an evening out.

Now for the winner of the snappy wallet kit giveaway sponsored by Funky Monkey Fabrics! Congrats to Joanne who said “I would make this wallet for my two grandsons, they are always saying I make too much girly stuff for their sisters.” Joanne, send me an email so I can get your prize out to you.

I’m thrilled to be able to offer this free bag pattern from an amazing Canadian bag designer, Celine from Blue Calla Sewing Patterns. She made this Gerbera as a companion to the Daisy Crossbody bag. Free patterns are a really great way to get familiar with a designer’s writing and instruction style before buying a pattern from them. I hope you’ll try this one out and get hooked on Blue Calla patterns like I have! I also got a chance to test the pattern before its release here today.  This pattern certainly doesn’t disappoint! It has a detachable wristlet, an interior zippered pocket, pleats and a gusset, for an overall unique and elegant design.

I used the patchwork option on the front and the optional full panel on the back of the bag. My fabrics are all from Fabric Spark. The Butterflies and leaves are part of Sarah Watson’s Biology collection, the navy overlay is part of Cotton + Steel’s Basics collection, and the lining is from Joel Dewberry’s Notting Hill collection. 

Celine likes to allow us makers to come up with interfacing combinations to suit our tastes. I used fusible fleece on the lining and craft fuse on my exterior, and I really like the results. I think Craft Fuse on the lining and Shapeflex for the exterior would be a nice combo too. 

Here are some pictures of the testers’ bags: Kristy at RockBabyScissors.com made this stunning rainbow Alison Glass patchwork, paired beautifully with Carolyn Friedlander’s low volume Doe.

Crystal at Cloth Albatross made an awesome companion to her Daisy, both in Cotton + Steel. The picture shows the size comparison of the Gerbera and Daisy.

Download the file and get started today! You can join the Blue Calla Patterns Facebook group for inspiration and support too! 

I just wanted to make a quick announcement that I’ll be hosting a Necessary Clutch Wallet sewalong here on the blog, starting June 15, 2015. The Necessary Clutch Wallet, affectionately known as the NCW, is an Emmaline Bags pattern. I love having Canadian designers featured on my site, so I was thrilled when Janelle of Emmaline offered a 20% pattern discount to sewalong participants, and even more pleased when she asked if I wanted to have a prize and is generously offering up a $20 Emmaline Bags store credit for a randomly drawn NCW completed during the sewalong. The sewalong will be completed over multiple posts and days and is the perfect opportunity for anyone who has been eyeing up the pattern, but just hasn’t taken the next step to start it. It’s also great for anyone who has made a few or even many! What I love about this pattern is that there are so many variations and ways to make the clutch unique. All details for entering into the draw for the prize will be posted at a later date. For now, go get yourself the pattern, and use the discount CANUCK20 to save 20% on the Necessary Clutch Wallet pattern, and gather your supplies and fabric. Emmaline Bags also sells beautiful, high quality hardware and interfacing for the NCW.  We’ll see you back here on the 15th!

I showed my first Snappy Wallet a while back as a new go-to gift for birthday parties for my six year old son, and now I have a tutorial for it. It’s a simple design, and you can add to it, I’ve really just done the math for you! I think it’s great for little kids as their first wallet, just enough room for a library card, a gift card, and some cash. You could easily add a zippered pocket on the back. 

I’m also happy to share that Melissa at Funky Monkey Fabrics has agreed to sponsor a giveaway. This kit includes everything you need to make a couple kid friendly Snappy Wallets. The prize pack includes: 4FQs, enough fusible fleece, Craft Fuse, and Peltex to make 2 wallets, and even a few coordinating snaps! Details at the end of the post for how to win.

Start by cutting: 

• exterior fabric 4″ Hx 8″ W
• fusible fleece 4″ x 8″

• interior cotton 14″H x 8″W,  
• Craft Fuse 2.25″ x 8″ 
• Craft Fuse 2.75″ x 8″
  
• Peltex 3″ x 7″
• 2x exterior or interior fabric 1.5″ x 3.5″ (for snap tab)
• fusible fleece 1″ x 3.5″



Fuse fleece to exterior fabric and set aside. Take both snap tab pieces and place right sides together. Cut one short end of the tab to create rounded corners. Fuse 1″ x 3.5″ fleece to wrong side of one snap tab. Sew snap tabs right sides together with 1/4″ seam allowance, making sure to backstitch at start and stop. Here’s the trickiest part of the whole wallet: turn right side out, using a chop stick or similar object. Topstitch with a 1/8″ seam allowance and set aside.

Take interior fabric, fold and press one 8″ edge up by 2.25″, then fold and press again, accordion style, so the folded edge is 2.25″ from raw edges of piece. Then repeat these steps, but create a 2.75″ crease behind the 2.25″ crease. So you should have a piece like in this diagram.

Now insert the craft fuse pieces in the corresponding creases and fuse. 

Then flip over and fold the 4″ high piece down and out of the way and draw a line 2.25″ up from bottom edge and 4″ from side edges. Stitch along this line, starting 2.25″ from edge and going toward bottom, backstitching at start. Only sew through most of the height of the bill slot and the entire height of the card slot, leaving the interior back out of the way. This creates the card slots.

Place snap tab on one side (4″) edge of right side of interior assembly, tab facing inside, and place exterior piece right side down on top of snap tab and interior piece. Pin/clip edges, leaving a turning hole at the top of the wallet. Make sure to backstitch at start and stop.

Trim seam allowances to reduce the bulk, especially at the corners. Turn wallet right side out, using a turning tool to make corners as crisp as possible. Install the stud/cap snap on the snap tab. Fold the wallet to mark where the other half (socket) of the snap should go.

Use awl to make snap hole through exterior fabric and fleece only. This part is a bit tricky too: place cap and pliers inside wallet through turning hole and install socket/cap.

It should now look like this.

Now insert the peltex in the turning hole and smooth out evenly inside the wallet. Fold in edges of turning hole and press entire wallet well. Pin/clip turning hole closed and topstitch all the way around wallet.

You’re finished! Put a gift card and/or some cash in there and you have a wonderful gift that is sure to be well received.

To enter to win the prize pack, simply comment with who you’d make a Snappy Wallet for. Giveaway open until 11:59pm PST Saturday June 6, 2015. A random winner will be announced after June 7. Open to US and Canadian residents.
Bonus entries for following me onInstagram or Pinterest, or following Funky Monkey on Instagram, just make sure to leave a separate comment for each bonus entry