August 27, 2017
Castell Day Bag Sew Along Day 5
It’s Day 5 of the sew along, and if you need to catch up, you can check the previous days below. Today we finish the bag, including adding optional hardware. If you still need it, use code castellsew20 to save 20% on the Castell Day Bag pattern (both PDF and paper patterns are eligible for the discount). There will be 3 prizes of Emmaline store credit ($20, $15, and $10) drawn randomly, see details on how to win at the bottom of this post. The code is valid until August 31, 2017, so don’t wait too long to grab a copy.
Here’s the schedule:
Day 1: Getting started – cutting and fusing pieces
Day 2: Starting Exterior of bag
Day 3: Finish Exterior of bag
Day 4: Make the Lining
Day 5: Finish the bag! (That’s today!)
Joining lining and exterior
Place the exterior of the bag inside the lining of the bag, right sides together, so the exterior will be right side out and lining will be wrong side out. At the top, match up centers, side seams, and seams made when adding side pieces. I clipped all the way around to help align the bag but we’re only going to sew between the markings we made to sew on the zipper casings. To join the lining and exterior, sew one line of stitching at the front and another line of stitching at the back, each line being where the zipper casing was previously basted in place, between the marks; make sure to backstitch at starts at stops.
Once that’s sewn together, use the turning hole in the lining to turn the bag right side out. Take your time and do this carefully, because we don’t want to rip the lining.
After the bag is turned right side, pull the lining out enough to access the turning hole, press to join seam allowance of turning hole together, pin or clip in place and sew with a small seam allowance.
Zipper tabs – completing bag
IMPORTANT: Even though I have combined many steps in this pattern, attaching the zipper tabs must be done one at a time; you need to insert wire frames after completing one zipper tab and before doing the second.
This part is finnicky: Lay the zipper casing flat against the open side at top of bag, lining up center of zipper to side seam. Smooth out bag and casing as much as possible and clip in place. The zipper casing will extend past the side of the bag, that’s ok. Sew a line of basting stitch across the end of the bag and trim excess zipper casing, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Here’s what it looks like from underneath before you sew and trim.
Fold down one long edge of each zipper tab by 1/2″ to the wrong side.
Place 2 tabs right sides together and sew together at the short sides only.
Press the seams from the short sides open. Now slip one assembled tab over the end you just basted and trimmed, matching raw edge from zipper tab to raw edge of zipper casing/zipper. Sew across end to secure.
Flip up zipper tab so the right side is out, match up folded edges and topstitch at open end, then another line of topstitching at zipper tab end closest to rest of bag.
Now insert wires frames in each zipper casing and complete zipper tab on remaining open end. This completes your bag!
If you don’t have any additional hardware to add, then you go ahead and show that baby off to the world! I am adding metal edge trim to each flap, and strap ends to my strap anchor tabs. You’ll need a small precision screw driver and if you like, you can add glue as well. I don’t use the glue usually because truth be told, I’m scared to make a mess with it and the screws hold it in place very well. If the products were weight bearing, then I’d face my fears and go for the glue. I find it easiest to place the screw on the end of the screwdriver, rather than trying to screw it in from the trim. Each of these trims are quite simple to install; the hardest part is keeping track of those tiny screws! Just slide the trim on and place each screw. Don’t go too tight because you don’t want to strip it. I did have to squish my strap tabs with some pliers to make the ends skinny enough for the strap ends fit, but it was just right for a snug fit.
If you made a cross-body strap, connect it from the left rectangle ring at the front to the right rectangle ring at the back (it doesn’t really matter which side is at the front, as long as you connect it to the opposite side at the back).
I hope you enjoyed the sew along, and please feel free to ask any questions, either in the comments, by email, or in the Emmaline Sewing Patterns Group on facebook.
To be entered to win an Emmaline store credit ($20, $15, and $10), simply tag me @reecemontgomery and Emmaline Bags @emmalinebags in a picture of your completed Castell Day Bag, and use #CastellSewAlong on Instagram before September 12, 2017. (Profiles must be public so I can see them. If you don’t have/use/like Instagram, you can also upload a picture of your completed bag to be entered to win.)
August 25, 2017
Castell Day Bag Sew Along Day 4
Welcome back to the Castell Day Bag Sew Along. It’s Day 4 and if you need to catch up, you can check the previous days below. Our bag is really taking shape by now, are you getting excited?!
Here’s the schedule:
Day 1: Getting started – cutting and fusing pieces
Day 2: Starting Exterior of bag
Day 3: Finish Exterior of bag
Day 4: Make the Lining (that’s today!)
Day 5: Finish the bag!
Creating Lining Pockets
These pockets look so impressive, but they’re super easy to make! Take 2 pocket lining pieces and place right sides together with zipper sandwiched between at the top and the zipper facing down. Some people may find it easier to use a basting tape, like Wonder Tape, to hold everything in place before sewing zippers. Once the tops of the lining pocket pieces and one side of the zipper is lined up, sew in place using a zipper foot. You may notice my zipper tape is much longer than the top of the pocket piece: for me this is a major benefit of making my own zippers. I will trim it later, but for now I don’t need to move the zipper pull out of the way as I’m sewing in my zipper. If you want to read more about making your own zippers, read my post here.
Flip the pocket pieces so they are right sides together and press away from the zipper.
Topstitch along the pressed edge about 1/8″ away. Now we need to create the gathering for the pocket. To do this, we run a basting stitch (long stitch length) at the bottom of the pocket pieces. Make sure to leave a long thread at both ends.
Before we pull up our gathers, we are going to sandwich the other side of the zipper tape between the pocket middle and the pocket top. The pocket middle should be right side up and the pocket top should be wrong side up. If your fabric for pocket top is directional, make sure you’re placing it correctly, because we’re going to flip it up in the next step. For this step, make sure your zipper is now right side up. (Note: I’m sorry if my fabrics are confusing – I chose to make my pockets opposite fabrics of each other and switched pockets while taking step photos.)
Flip the pocket top up, press away from zipper and topstitch.
Now we create the gather in the pocket by very gently pulling on a single thread at one end of the bottom edge of the pocket. Since I’m right handed, I find it easiest to hold the threads in place on the left side, and pull gently on the right. You can gently move the fabric along the thread to smooth out the gathers, otherwise the fabric just bunches up at one end. You’ll want the bottom of the pocket to match the width of the Pocket Middle behind it. Don’t try too hard for this to be perfect, it will get sorted when it’s basted in place. Now pull in the zipper pull and baste the pocket to the Pocket Middle starting from the topstitching above the zipper.
Now attach the pocket bottom to (you guessed it) the bottom of the pocket. Again with this step, pay attention to the direction of your fabric, since it will be flipped down once it’s sewed on.
Turn down the pocket bottom and topstitch.
Completing Lining
Now attach the lining side panels. Once they’re sewn, trim off any excess zipper tape.
Press away from center and topsitch if desired. Repeat with remaining lining pieces to create second lining half if you haven’t already.
Place both assembled lining panels right sides together. Clip or pin bottom together. Sew together but leave a turning gap in the middle about 6-8″ wide; to do this, I like to sew one continuous line but backstitch when I get to where I want my turning gap to be, then switch to a basting stitch for the length of the turning gap, and then back to my regular stitch length.
Press the bottom seam open. Sew up side seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance.
With side seams open, box corners as you did with the exterior.
Here’s what it looks like so far…
That’s it for now! On Sunday we finish it all up! I’d love to see how you’re doing. Share with me on Instagram with #CastellSewAlong or in the Emmaline Sewing Patterns Group on Facebook and don’t forget to tag me @reecemontgomery so I can see. Thanks for joining me and I look forward to seeing you all again for Day 5, the final day.
August 23, 2017
Castell Day Bag Sew Along Day 3
Welcome back to the Castell Day Bag Sew Along. It’s Day 3 and if you need to catch up, you can check the previous days below.
Here’s the schedule:
Day 1: Getting started – cutting and fusing pieces
Day 2: Starting Exterior of bag
Day 3: Finish Exterior of bag (that’s today!)
Day 4: Make the Lining
Day 5: Finish the bag!
Finishing Outer Shell
Day 2 left us with completed front and back panels and now we are going to join them. Pin or clip along the bottom edges to join and sew together.
Press that bottom seam open and position the assembled exterior wrong side touching the foam stabilizer.
Smooth fabric over foam, pin in place, especially along the long seams that attached the side pieces to center panels. Topstitch on the side piece side of those seams. Staying in the seam allowance mark 1″ away from each of these seams, away from center. Run a basting stitch between the 1″ marks, making sure you move the handles out of the way.
Using a ruler or another long straight edge, mark a diagonal line connecting one end of the previous basting stitch to the closest inside corner. Repeat for all 4 corners.
Make sure the shape that is now marked out looks like the one below and in the pattern and cut away the foam only, leaving inside shape of foam and all fabric intact. If you are adding purse feet, decide where you’d like them and mark where to make your small cuts for the prongs.To place mine, I drew lines connecting the inside corners so I could visualize the base of the bag, then measured in 1.5″ from those lines, and 2″ in from notches at sides. I used my seam ripper to make very small holes for the prongs and push the feet through from the right side of the fabric and anchored them with the washers.
Now fold up the bag right sides together, matching the side edges. Clip or pin and sew together along just the side edges.
To box the corners, we bring the seam from the sides to meet the seam from the bottom. Lay the seams flat and clip together. Sew one line at the regular seam allowance (3/8″) and then another to help reinforce, 1/8″ outside (toward raw edges) the line we just stitched.
Zipper Casing
The zipper casing doesn’t go all the way around the exterior of the bag, so we need to mark the edges, and centers so we can place it correctly. To do this, make a mark 1 1/2″ in from the side seams, on both the front and back of the bag.
Mark centers now too.
To mark the centers of all the zipper casings, you can line them all up and mark 12″ in.
Lining up centers of 2 zipper casings, place right sides together with zipper right side up and zipper pull at right. If you’re using a 24″ zipper, center the zipper teeth with the zipper casings, and if you’re using a longer zipper, it’s ok to have the pull outside of the zipper casing. Sew together with 1/4″ seam allowance and a zipper foot. Pull zipper casings back and match up wrong sides together and press away from zipper, then topstitch. Repeat with other side of the zipper.
Close the end of the zipper casings by sewing over the short ends, be careful sewing over the zipper teeth. Now we need to place the casing on the outer bag. With the bag right side out, and the zipper open all the way, and place the zipper casing right side up laid over top of the bag. Slide the casing over the outer edge of the bag and clip in place, matching center marks on casing and bag.
This is what it should look like once it’s clipped all around between the markings we placed earlier.
Before sewing in place, I like to zip up just to make sure I have the zipper casing on right. Once you’re sure it’s correct, sew in place with a long basting stitch between markings only.
If you’re really keen to get an idea of what the bag will look like when it’s done, you can place the frames in the casing now, but you’ll have to take them out before we attach the lining.
That’s it for now! We will continue with the lining on Friday so you can set the outer bag aside for now. I’d love to see how you’re doing. Share with me on Instagram with #CastellSewAlong or in the Emmaline Sewing Patterns Group on Facebook and don’t forget to tag me @reecemontgomery so I can see. Thanks for joining me and I look forward to seeing you all again for Day 4.
August 21, 2017
Hey! Wash Where You’re Going!
To pre-wash or not to pre-wash? This question comes up almost daily in beginner sewing forums and chat groups. Everybody’s looking for a definitive answer that will close the case for good. So here I come to tell you: Wash where you’re going!
A good general rule of thumb is to do with it whatever it will go through in its lifetime. If it’s going to become a hobo bag that gets tossed in the laundry, wash it. If it’s going to get treated with Scotchguard and never ever come in contact with water, don’t prewash. If the garment is going to be dry cleaned, take the fabric to the cleaners. If you expect a teenager to wear it until it’s covered in grime and doodles then toss it in the trash, just go ahead and toss it in the trash… oh wait! No, I mean, maybe just pre-wash it because it will be the only time it gets washed.
But then you have all the exceptions…
Reasons to pre-wash:
- Allergies and sensitivities, yours as you’re sewing, or the customer’s. The sizing (liquid treatment) they put on new fabrics can wreak havoc with some people’s sinuses and skin.
- The ick factor. Where did the fabric come from? How was it stored? What else has been lying on it?
- Colour transfer. Indigo denim will rub off on other clothes and furniture if it isn’t pre-washed thoroughly. So will some of the hand-dyed exotic fabric. (I once bought a cute little cross-body bag from some village artisans in Vietnam. I came home with every article of clothing stained with a diagonal green stripe across my chest.)
- Preshrinking. It’s tragic indeed when you carefully make your garment or accessory, only to wear it once. Almost as cataclysmic as the time the new king-sized duvet cover became a queen.
Reasons not to pre-wash:
- You need the sizing to keep the fabric from becoming a Slip’n’Slide. Sometimes your satiny soft goodness can be unmanageable on the cutting board and machine, so it helps to leave the sizing in until you’re done working with it.
- You’re working with leather or one of its variations. (Do not ask me how I know!)
- Your washing machine is broken.
- Sheep shrink. But you can still have them dry cleaned. And if you’ve ever hand-washed a sheep…
- Laziness. (I haven’t confirmed this, but I heard it’s a valid reason. One that’s usually followed by regret.)
Personally, I won’t work with any fabric I can’t wash*. I love doing laundry. Good times.
Cheers
PS. I’m interested in hearing other reasons not to pre-wash. Do you have any?
* Exceptions include leather (oops!) and cork.
Tags: dry clean, fabric, laundry, pre-washing
Castell Day Bag Sew Along Day 2
Welcome back to the Castell Day Bag Sew Along. It’s Day 2 and if you need to catch up, you can check the previous day out here.
Here’s the schedule:
Day 1: Getting started – cutting and fusing pieces
Day 2: Starting Exterior of bag (that’s today!)
Day 3: Finish Exterior of bag
Day 4: Make the Lining
Day 5: Finish the bag!
Getting ready
Today we actually start sewing and before I start a big project, I always like to give my machine a quick clean. I take off the stitch plate cover and take out the bobbin case and use a pipe cleaner to remove all the lint and buildup. The pipe cleaner works well because you can twist and bend it to get into all the nooks and crannies. If it’s really bad, I take out the vacuum. Here’s my before and after.
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I also like to change my needle before each project too. I like Microtex needles since they are nice and sharp. Another good idea is to load more than one bobbin of the colour(s) you’ll be using; there’s nothing like stopping to wind a bobbin to interrupt your flow.
Straps etc.
Let’s start with the cross-body strap, handbag straps and strap anchors. For all three, we’re using the same method, so I find it faster to do them together rather than separately. This way my iron stays hot for pressing and I just find it quicker to do similar tasks together. You can choose to use a larger bias tape maker, which does the first set of folding for you.
If you use the bias tape maker, you’ll need to unfold at the ends and fold up 1/4″ at short ends after running through the tool. It’s easy enough to do after and the strip presses back in place.
Or you can do exactly as the pattern instructs, and fold under short ends 1/4″ first, then fold fabric lengthwise towards center.
Now bring the folded ends together and clip or pin in place. Once all the strap/handbag straps/strap anchors are ready to go, bring them over to the machine and stitch around all 4 sides of each.
For the handbag straps, I like to make a mark and fold before applying the ring. Just measure out 1 1/2″ and make a mark with a removable marker or hera marker, and make a crease at that line. Then slip on the ring and fold over at the crease. Clip in place and repeat for remaining end and then repeat on both ends of remaining handbag strap. Then stitch each folded end in place with a box or 2 lines of backstitching.
I put my rivets centred between the 2 lines of stitching. I use my husband’s old rotary punch and a simple setter and anvil for my rivets. I always check a couple sizes of rivets before setting. You don’t want the post to be too long, otherwise the rivet won’t set properly. It’s always a good idea to have a couple sizes on hand. Here’s a really great tutorial to learn more about rivets. They really aren’t that scary, but you should practice on a scrap before you try it out on the bag for the first time.
For the cross-body strap, I do it just like in the pattern, except I clip in place until the whole strap is threaded through everything. Either way will yield the exact same results.
For the strap anchors, simply cut each piece in half so you’ll end up with 4 equal length strap anchors. Put them in a pretty pile with the handbag straps and cross body strap and set them all aside for now.
Exterior panels
Take the Exterior Pocket piece and fold it in half lengthwise to find center; finger press at the top and make a small mark on the wrong side at the top. Do this and the following steps with the other exterior pocket piece. I like to do each step on both pieces (just like with the handles).
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Now we’re making a mark 3″ down from the top mark to place the magnetic snap. Fuse a scrap of stabilizer or fleece over the mark and then mark measure again. Use the washer from the magetic snap to make mark for the slits you need to cut for the prongs of the magnet.
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Using a seam ripper, carefully cut slits for your prongs, apply fray check. From the right side of the fabric, place the female half of the magnetic snap through the slits. Turn back over to the wrong side and flatten prongs (I like to bend them outward). Then fuse a scrap of interfacing over the back to reduce wear on linings from the metal backing.
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Now take you pocket piece with the magnet and lay it right side up on your work surface, then place exterior pocket lining right side down, matching tops – note the lining is shorter.
Stitch along the top, then bring the pieces wrong sides together, matching the bottom, so that some of the exterior pocket is above the lining. Press in place and topstitch. You may choose a decorative stitch or style that you’ll be using throughout the bag for all the topstitching.
Now place the topstitched, assembled pocket fronts on the exterior center panel, lining side down and exterior side up, matching the bottoms and sides of the pockets to the panels, clip and baste in place.
Attach the long side of the side piece to the long side of the assembled center panel. I clip each (all 4) long side at the same time and then sew all at the same time. Press the seams out, toward the side pieces. At this point, it’s really tempting to topstitch along those sides, but don’t just yet.
To make the pocket flaps, you’ll need to add the male half of the magnetic snap to the lining of the flap. Use the mark on the pattern piece to find placement, and follow same steps we did to attach the female ends. Now place lining and exterior pieces of flap right sides together and sew around, leaving a turning gap of about 3″ along the top, straight edge. I almost always forget to stop for the turning gap, so I add a second clip on top of the last clip to remind me to stop. Backstitch at starts and stops.
Turn right side out and smooth edges out. Check to make sure the curves are nice and even before you press everything in place. Tuck turning gap in and seam. If you’re using a metal edge trim, now is a good chance to double check it will fit; just slip it in place to make sure and set the trim back aside for now.
Topstitch around sides and bottom curve, leaving top edge for now.
Snap magnetic halves together with the pocket and flap and straighten flap, measure top edge of flap to top edge of center panel to make sure it’s even, then topstitch in place.
Now for the strap anchors: grab the paper template and position above the flap to note where the anchors should go. You can either make a removable mark on your fabric or just slip the paper out quickly and pin the strap anchors in place. You want to make sure the raw edge is at the bottom, closest to the flap.
Stitch in place 1/4″ above bottom of strap anchor and again 3/4″ from bottom of strap anchor. Make sure this stitching is really reinforced well
Thread the ring from the handbag strap through and fold strap anchor down so that the end hangs down from the raw end about 1 1/2″. Before you stitch in place, make sure both sides are even. Measure up 1/2″ from top of flap and mark a line on the strap anchor, and then mark another line 3/4″ from line you just marked. Those are your stitching lines to secure the handbag straps; check one more time that the lines are even side to side and stitch in place. If you’d like, you can install rivets between theses stitched lines.
If you haven’t already, repeat for remaining exterior pieces. I will add the metal trim and strap keepers to my finished bag on Day 5. If you’d like to add a bag label, now is a good time to do it. Choose your location and follow the steps to insert a magnetic snap.
Well, that should keep you busy for a while, and this post has gotten quite long, so I think I’ll end this here for today. Day 3 will be finishing the exterior, which includes adding the stabilizer and zipper casing. I’d love to see your progress, share a picture with me on Instagram with #CastellSewAlong or in the Emmaline Sewing Patterns Group on Facebook and don’t forget to tag me @reecemontgomery so I can see.
August 18, 2017
Castell Day Bag Sew Along Day 1
Yay! it’s Day 1 of the sew along. I hope you’re as excited as I am to make this beautiful bag together. Before we get started, let’s review what we’ll be doing. Starting today, I’ll be posting steps to make the Emmaline Bags Castell Day Bag. I’ll break it up over several days, to give you plenty of time to sew at a leisurely pace. I will offer tips and different options and take pictures along the way. You can share your progress on Instagram with #CastellSewAlong or in the Emmaline Sewing Patterns Group on Facebook. There are also going to be 3 prizes for participants who complete the bag. To be entered to win an Emmaline store credit ($20, $15, and $10), simply tag me @reecemontgomery and Emmaline Bags @emmalinebags in a picture of your completed Castell Day Bag, and use #CastellSewAlong on Instagram before September 12, 2017. (Profiles must be public so I can see them. If you don’t have/use/like Instagram, you can also upload a picture of your completed bag to be entered to win.)
Here’s the schedule:
Day 1: Getting started – cutting and fusing pieces (that’s today!)
Day 2: Starting Exterior of bag
Day 3: Finish Exterior of bag
Day 4: Make the Lining
Day 5: Finish the bag!
Getting Started
A note about this sew along: I suggest reading through the actual pattern and referring to it while sewing; this sew along is meant to supplement the pattern instructions, not replace it. If you don’t have the pattern yet, you’ll need to purchase it. You can find the discount code and link in the announcement post here. If you haven’t ordered your hardware yet, you’ll want to do that right away too. You don’t need it today, but you will need the frames before finishing up the bag. Visit Emmaline Bags to pick up some bling and your frames!
If you’ve purchased a paper pattern, you’re one step ahead. If you have downloaded the PDF pattern, you’ll need to print it. You may wish to only print out the pattern pieces and refer to a computer or mobile device for the pattern and sew along. Make sure the pattern pieces print out at 100%, or actual size. Once printed, double check by measuring the 1″ test square. Cut out the pattern pieces and tape A1 and A2 together, overlapping the gray area; do the same thing for D1 and D2. I also find the cutting guide on page 4 really handy to print out, so I can check off as a list as I go.
Cutting
Cutting and fusing is often my least favourite part of bag making, and I often have to psych myself up just to get started, but once it’s done, the fun begins…so let’s do this!
If you haven’t chosen your fabric yet, you’ll need to do that. For this bag, I chose one single fabric for my exterior, but it works well to have the centre pockets as an accent fabric too. For my lining, I chose several coordinates and went with a brighter theme than my usual low volume innards. I like to cut my fabric first, before the interfacing, since it’s prettier and more fun, and then when cutting the fabric is done, I tell myself I’m more than half done all my cutting! Gather your supplies. I use shears for the pattern pieces, and rotary blade with rulers for the rectangles. Do yourself a favour and change your rotary blade if you haven’t done it recently. A fresh blade really does make cutting so much nicer, and reduces fatigue. I also like to have a few different marking tools. I like the chaco liner, the clover triangle chalk, and just regular pens.
The direction of the print of fabric should be the same way as the words on the pattern piece, so if you have directional fabric, pay attention to make sure your top isn’t at the bottom.
Let’s start with the exterior fabric. Notice that Pattern Piece A states to cut 2 mirror image sets. Here is an example of how I did one mirror image set. Basically, you trace/cut one piece out of the pattern with writing side up, and another piece with the pattern writing side down.
A time saving tip for some of the rectangles is to do subcutting. For example the zipper casing is 24″ long by 1.5″ wide and we need 4 of them. For this piece, I’ve cut one piece 24″ by 6″, and you can interface the same way, and cut into the smaller sections once you’ve fused the interfacing.
Some of the rectangles we have to cut are probably bigger than the rulers you have available. Use 2 rulers together! In this example, I wanted a piece of fabric 15″ wide, but my large ruler is only 12.5″ wide, so I added 2.5″ from another ruler.
Here’s another way to cut 4 pieces of fabric, when you want to 2 mirror image sets: fold the fabric right sides together, and then fold again, now wrong sides together. Trace around pattern piece, and cut (I pinned my fabric layers together before cutting to prevent shifting). This method is a favourite mine because I only have to trace and cut once for 4 pieces of fabric.
For the lining gathered pocket, we’re cutting on the fold. I also pin before cutting on the fold.
Make sure to check off all the pieces as you go so you can keep track of what you’ve done. I like to write on the back of my pieces with erasable pen, like frixion markers, since they’ll disappear with some heat. I also pin or clip small pieces together so I don’t lose them. Any pieces that correspond with pattern pieces I leave with the paper pattern piece. This pattern doesn’t call for interfacing the lining pieces, but if you choose to do so, you can cut a set of interfacing to match the lining pieces; however, you should consider not interfacing the gathered pockets since they may not gather nicely once interfaced.
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To fuse the interfacing to the exterior pieces, make sure the interfacing is centred on each piece and use a hot iron. I find interfacing fuses best when I start at the centre and slowly work my out, with pauses and pressing, rather than a back and forth “ironing” motion. I always find fusible fleece difficult to actually fuse, no matter which brand I use. My best success is when I spray a bit of water before placing the fleece (on the wrong side of my fabric) and then placing the fleece and quickly flipping the pieces over and pressing from the right side of the fabric. I picked up a spray bottle at the dollar store and filled it with water and always keep it near my iron when fusing. If you’re lucky/smart enough to have a steam press, then you’ve probably skimmed over this section since I hear that’s the fastest way to fuse interfacing. |
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Once you’ve cut and fused everything, you’re ready to move to Day 2! This can take a while, so we’ll start Day 2 on Monday, August 21, giving everyone the weekend to do their prep. If you’re done early, gather the rest of your supplies, like any of the pretty optional hardware, and all your zippers.
I’d love to see your fabric choices; share with me on Instagram with #CastellSewAlong or in the Emmaline Sewing Patterns Group on Facebook and don’t forget to tag me @reecemontgomery so I can see. Thanks for joining me and I look forward to seeing you all again on Monday.
August 12, 2017
One Thimble Issue 16 – Mermaid Tails and Bubble Trails
Have you heard of One Thimble digital sewing magazine? I’ve been a contributor for a couple issues (see here and here) and like this time, I’ve joined in on the Pattern Revolution blog tour. This issue has patterns for women, kids, and additional goodies. One Thimble 16 will have you dreaming of underwater adventure! You’ll have a chance to enter to win a copy, so keep reading to find out how.
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I chose the FMA (Free Motion Applique) patterns from Inkling Threads to sew up and they are so sweet! Meet Meg the Mermaid and Murray the Merman!
Just what the heck is Free Motion Applique?! Well, you start with shapes cut out of fabric and draw in the detail with your thread! Here’s Murray in progress (I decided to leave off the mustache at the last minute). At this point, I had already attached my fusible webbing to the wrong side of my fabric. It’s so fun going through my scrap stash to find the perfect “clothes” for these guys.
For the merman, I created a Sand Free Tote for my youngest son, who has a special talent of bringing half the beach home with us. It has a mesh bottom so just the toys and towel, without the sand, comes back into the house.
Supplies: Water resistant Cordura and webbing from Paccana, By Annie’s Lightweight Mesh from Emmaline Bags.
Meg the Mermaid was the perfect feature to add to a basket I made for a friend’s baby shower.
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This is the basket from Anna Graham’s book, Handmade Style. These baskets are perfect for around the home, or in baby’s room. I did have to shrink the mermaid pattern by about 10% to fit it perfectly on the front of the basket. That’s one of the things I love about PDFs- you can make them bigger or smaller depending on the application. I used an old Cotton + Steel print for the tail/body and love the metallic dots to make it look like mermaid scales.
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Here’s a closeup so you can see the detail. The crown was a bit nerve-wracking, but I’m pretty impressed with the results. Her sweet little face and flowy hair are exactly how I’d picture a real mermaid. Doesn’t it make you want to put a mermaid on everything? #putamermaidonit
This latest issue is available now! Grab yourself a copy, and cozy up on the couch with your tablet while you plan out your next project. You can also enter to win a copy, just enter through the Rafflecopter below – good luck!
Make sure to follow along on the tour to see all the beautiful projects everyone made.
Blog Tour Kickoff
Pattern Revolution
8/11/2017
Sewing with Sarah
GAAF Machine
8/12/2017
Call Ajaire
Happy Okapi
Idle Sunshine
8/13/2017
Pear Berry Lane
Candice Ayala
Needles to Say
8/14/2017
House of Estrela
That’s-Sew-Kari
Made by Sara
8/15/2017
Little Cumquat
Beri Bee Designs
Once Upon a Sewing Machine
8/16/2017
Sprouting JubeJube
Sew Haute Blog
Lily Shine Creates
8/17/2017
Lulu & Celeste
Adventures with Bubba and Bug
Curtiepie