The Good Shears

Locked Scissors
Sewing Scissors Meme

Internet meme. Creator unknown, or else they would be credited.

I don’t know who the guy in the picture is or what TV show he’s from, but who’s gonna argue with him and his pistol? He and his buddies have been riding around the internet telling people that you can’t cut anything but fabric with your special sewing shears or the world as we know it will come to an abrupt halt.

Well, I’ve had it up to my hair roots with this scissor protectionism, which by the way, is similar to the one that hair stylists have about their “hair scissors”. (Something this dude desperately needs.) But hair stylists actually have just cause for inflicting egregious harm on anyone who cuts fabric or paper with their scissors. The design of hair scissors is different, and the construction methods do make them more fragile and prone to dulling.

Sewists have been making the same claim for I don’t know how long. Presumably, paper dulls the scissor blades more than fabric does. Why is that? Is there something to it? Is there any proof that the apocalypse is nigh if you should accidentally cut through your pattern paper with the good shears? It so happens that those assertions are mostly wrong. (I was going to say “horse caca” but you know, sensitive readers and all…)

I’ve spent over a year — off and on — trying to find some kind of evidence to support our righteous indignation at having our precious scissors sullied by the grubby hands of our spouses and children. This is the result of way too many research hours.

Content & Shape

(Kinda almost technical, so feel free to skip this section)

Aside from the plastic handles, scissors are made from 2 kinds of alloy. Carbon steel is 1% carbon and 99% iron, and plated with either nickel or chromium for rustproofing. Stainless steel has about 10% chromium added to to the iron and carbon to prevent rusting. (Yes, that required a little math.) Nothing exciting there, except that they amount to some pretty solid alloys that can stand up to a little pressed wood pulp.

I checked to see if the shape of the blades could have anything to do with the dulling. Let’s just say I got hopelessly lost among the German, Japanese, honed, non-honed, convex, bevelled, serrated, micro-serrated, and lord knows what else that had my eyes double-crossed. I’m not even sure any of us need to know that in order to buy and use quality scissors. But there it is! And no, the shape has nothing to do with paper vs. fabric either.

Primary Research

Like I said, I searched the internet for more than a year, trying to find some evidence that killing your family over sewing shears is justifiable. I couldn’t find much written about it so my friend, Rochelle, conducted some tests of various scissors floating around her house. I even asked someone I know with a Master’s in Mechanical Engineering. They’re not exactly the most scientific research methods, but I think quite adequate for these purposes. (I wasn’t about to set up a metallurgy lab for this. That’s going too far!) Anyway, here’s what we found.

Locked Scissors

Does anyone know the combination?

Findings

(Skip to this part)

The need to treat your shears like “The One Ring to Rule Them All (my precioussssss) is only a partial myth. I did find that it’s not a good idea to cut gummy, gooey substances like, um, glue… or tape. Obviously these will leave icky residue all over your blades. Then you’ll have something else to clean. It is also strongly discouraged to cut through hard metals with your sewing scissors. Try that and dull blades will be the least of your problems.

With regular (or irregular) use, there will be wear and tear on your scissors, no matter what you’re cutting. The harder the substance you cut through, the more dulling effect it has. That’s reasonable, right? So, some fabrics will actually dull your blades faster than paper. The fibres in silk organza, for instance, are stronger than those in paper and need more force to break… essentially, your kids cutting paper or cardboard doesn’t dull your blades any faster than you chopping up those old 1990s dungarees to make a handbag. It takes years to make any significant difference in sharpness.

What you do need to watch out for is someone using it to cut sheet metal in the garage. (Yes, husbands, I’m glaring at you!) This is just cause for hubby-cide, unless they take responsibility for getting them professionally sharpened again. Other metals and hard plastics will give your blades a run for their money.

Quality Test Results

Another thing I found was that there are crappy scissors, good scissors and great scissors. (No, no! You don’t have to tell me how smart I am.) And the brand doesn’t necessarily tell you much about the quality. (Check out the photos of Rochelle’s testing below and make of it what you will.)

Rochelle grabbed 3 pairs of the scissors she has about the house. One was a Kai that has been “used over 30 years as kitchen shears, cutting everything from fabric to plastic to wood to food to wire… used and abused, never sharpened”. The second is a 2-year-old Westcott that’s been used exclusively for paper. The third one… well, the third one should be used as a fireplace poker because it’s not cutting it as scissors.

Abused Kitchen Kai

Kai snips through one layer of knit fabric with ease

And it also cuts 6 layers with no problem

Now Kai zips through one layer of home decor fabric

Still easy going with 6 layers of home decor

Paper Westcott

Westcott paper scissors takes on one layer of poly knit.

Even 6 layers of polyester knit are still no match for the paper scissors

Westcott handles itself with one layer of home decor fabric

And Westcott scissors are still holding their own with 6 layers of home dec

The Westcott Poker

Rochelle: “Won’t cut Six layers stretch polyester, in one snip. Grabs and twists. (Ah, look at the gap in those blades!) Didn’t even mar the polyester snaggy fabric.”

Test conclusions:

“The Westcott had a crisper feel and sound, but both scissors cut equally well, no twisting or tearing. One snip went through fabric cleanly, no excessive pressure required.”

If two pairs of (the 3) scissors, at different price points, can perform so well after years of cutting everything but fabric, why are we so worried about using our special shears to cut out our patterns?

My own unbranded sewing scissors are 20+ years old and have been through some hard times where they were forced to go through paper, tape, plastic packaging, styrofoam, aluminum foil … Oh! And what’s up with people recommending that you sharpen your blades by cutting through aluminum foil? Isn’t that worse than paper? How can you sharpen and dull your blades at the same time? I’m not even going to hurt my brain thinking that through… Right! So, yeah, despite all the abuse, I’ve only had my scissors sharpened once and they’re still my favourite.

A Little Mind Bend

Sewing teachers tell their students over and over that you can’t use your sewing scissors to cut paper, and students take their word for it. Why do we keep believing what we’ve been told, even if we see no evidence of it? In short, mental habit. Belief perseverance is a phenomenon that parents and marketers use on us all the time. Simply put, the more often we are exposed to statements, the more we tend to believe them. (That’s why you feel like you have to Just Do It if you put on a pair of Nikes.) Anyway, because we have heard the advice to lock up our shears so often, we don’t think to question it. It just is, and we do it. Researchers also call this the “tenacity method” of knowledge acquisition. That is, hanging onto certain ideas and beliefs just because they’ve been labelled as facts and accepted by “everybody” for a long time. People, we have been duped by our own repetition.

Let’s say goodbye to this meme and all her pals.

My Conclusion

We don’t need to keep the good shears under lock and key. The worst thing that can happen to them is that they get lost because, frankly, they do have a lousy sense of direction. It’s ok to cut the pattern paper with them. Just don’t let them migrate into the garage or the kids’ backpacks. (That will be the last time you see them.) You don’t need to dismember your family members for cutting crimes.

I can’t tell anyone not to believe the myth, but I can live dangerously and cut my paper patterns and vinyl bits with my sewing scissors. Whatever you believe, it doesn’t hurt to occasionally have your blades sharpened by a professional — no matter what you use them for.  Spread the word that the Good Shears aren’t in any grave danger. Go on and cut something!

PS. If you want to learn more about how we adopt and perpetuate myths despite evidence to the contrary, do a search for the Tenacity Method of Acquiring Knowledge.

Sources

http://www.madehow.com/Volume-3/Scissors.html

http://www.precisionsharpening.net/about_scissors

http://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Scissors

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Blue Calla Dahlia Drawstring Bucket Bag

Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own. Thanks for your support.


Blue Calla Dahlia Bucket Bag pattern - save 10%! | Happy Okapi Blog

I made this bag last year and I really don’t know why I didn’t share it earlier, but this pattern has me thinking about summer, so I figured I should tell you about it now to give you some time to prepare your next beach bag. Is it just me, or do bucket bags have you dreaming of sand and surf? The Blue Calla Dahlia Bucket Bag doesn’t have to be a beach bag of course; it could be your everyday bag too. It’s roomy enough to carry more than just the essentials and the trendy accents give it a cool vibe.
Blue Calla Dahlia Bucket Bag pattern - save 10%! | Happy Okapi Blog

I couldn’t resist using the border print of this older Cotton + Steel print to coordinate with the other C&S. I will admit, the grommets were new for me, and I was having a heck of a time cutting the holes to set my grommets. My friend Crystal of Cloth Albatross helped me by suggesting to cut Xs for my holes, and then she even wrote a tutorial on the Blue Calla blog. If you haven’t installed grommets before, or you have but struggled, I strongly urge you to check out the tutorial, because it helps so much.
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This pattern is great to try out vinyl or cork for the accents. I used a faux suede from Funky Monkey Fabrics; like cork and vinyl, this material doesn’t fray.
Blue Calla Dahlia Bucket Bag pattern - save 10%! | Happy Okapi Blog

See this rounded cap stud on the accent here? It’s a purse foot! I know you can get studs specifically for adding bling, but the purse feet I had on hand worked perfectly and matched the rest of my hardware. I also use a zipper end from Emmaline for the end of my drawstring. 
Blue Calla Dahlia Bucket Bag pattern - save 10%! | Happy Okapi Blog

This pattern has an adjustable strap, 2 exterior side pockets, an interior zippered pocket, and of course, a drawstring closure. It’s a lot of fun to sew up, and then a bit scary to cut holes into your completed bag, but that makes it a fun challenge.

If you want to try it for yourself, you can get the pattern from Blue Calla, and don’t forget to use the exclusive discount for my readers to save 10%, just put in code OKAPI10 at checkout.


Monthly DIY Box
woven-pear-pineapple-whip
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May 2017 Sales

Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own. Thanks for your support.

Swoon Sewing Patterns

Get 35% off patterns (PDF & paper) and fabric with code: memorialday
Now through Monday night



Sew Sweetness Videos

Sew Sweetness Videos are here! Until May 29, you can get the 4 pack bundle and save $20! The bundle includes videos and patterns.



Funky Monkey Fabrics

Sale of the Week: 10% off Double Gauze with the code DG10!

April 2017 Sales

Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own. Thanks for your support.

The Juniper Toiletry Bag is available and 20% off right now. As always, use code OKAPI10 to save an additional 10%.

Incredible contest over at Sew Sweetness and discounts on patterns, plus bonus with supply purchase. Click the photo below for all the details.
Sew Sweetness Contest with discounts


Funky Monkey

This week take 10% off all in stock skulls & geeky cottons with the code geek10! Lots of fun science prints, skulls, Canadian prints, watches, bikes, glasses, pickles, emojis etc! 



Fiesta Tote Pattern Testing


The Fiesta Tote pattern by Mrs H | Happy Okapi Blog

Do you have that one fabric that you’re hanging onto for the “perfect project?” Well, for me this is the fabric. I knew I’d had it for a while, but wasn’t sure exactly how long, so I went through my records and discovered I bought it from Fabric Spark in 2014! It’s called Poetry, in Teal and is part of the Garden of Earthly Delights collection designed by Studio KM for Free Spirit. You probably already know that I’m a bird lover, and I tend to gravitate toward fabrics with birds. I think this print is so pretty, with its saturated colours and how it makes the black and white bird pop. The bird is quite large, so I was just waiting for the right project that called for something in this scale. Along came the Fiesta Tote! As usual, I’m often inspired by the pattern name to choose my fabrics. I also knew that the pattern would be released in Spring, so I wanted something bright and cheerful.
The Fiesta Tote pattern by Mrs H | Happy Okapi Blog

Polka Dots! These polka dots are from Jackie McFee’s Opposites Attract collection and they work perfectly with the black and white from the exterior of the bag.
The Fiesta Tote pattern by Mrs H | Happy Okapi Blog

Now about the pattern: the Fiesta Tote was written for a bag making retreat that just wrapped up in the UK. Samantha (aka Mrs. H) wanted attendees to have some special patterns to work on during the retreat, so she actually designed 3 new patterns. This one was designed for beginners, or intermediate “bagineers” looking for a quick sew. There’s also the Toiletry Tote and the Machine Bag. You can buy them all as a bundle, or each one individually.

The Fiesta Tote has a rounded bottom, achieved with darts, and a removable adjustable strap, plus small handles. It also features interior slip pocket and interior zippered pocket. The main compartment is closed with a magnetic snap. The approximate dimensions are about 14″ wide by about 11″ tall.

The Fiesta Tote pattern by Mrs H | Happy Okapi Blog

I used webbing for my handles and strap, which is what is called for in the pattern and really allows for the bag to come together quickly. Some testers made their own, for a more custom look. I used D rings to attach my strap, but you could also use a triangle ring. The rivets are optional, but I love the extra touch to tie in all the coordinating hardware.
The Fiesta Tote pattern by Mrs H | Happy Okapi Blog

The pattern includes instructions to place an exterior zippered pocket, but I omitted mine in order to keep my focal point.
The Fiesta Tote pattern by Mrs H | Happy Okapi Blog

If you’ve been wanting to dive in to bagmaking, this pattern is a great place to start. It offers a taste of hardware, a small variety of interfacing and a beautiful bag at the end! Find the pattern here, or to purchase the bundle, click here.

woven-pear-socks

Swoon Lucy Backpack

Swoon Sewing Patterns Lucy Backpack in Echino Motorbikes | Happy Okapi Blog

Here in BC, kids get 2 weeks of Spring Break, yes you read that right! March is not my favourite time in the Fraser Valley – too much rain for my liking, but I didn’t want that to stop me from taking the kids out for some fun activities. I wanted to make sure I also had fun and participated in our activities, so I needed a bag that would allow me to be hands-free. Last summer,I made the Beatnik Waist Bag, and it was perfect for then, but this time, I was looking for something a bit bigger, to accommodate a few snacks. There are plenty of cute backpack purses out there (maybe I’ll do a roundup one of these days) but I chose Swoon’s Lucy because it looked fairly quick, and even had some options I could skip to speed up the sewing. Another plus for me was that I already had the pattern, as part of the Vintage Collection from Swoon Sewing Patterns, such a great buy!
Swoon Sewing Patterns Lucy Backpack in Echino Motorbikes | Happy Okapi Blog

My latest fabric purchase from Fabric Spark included these fun Echino Motorbikes and I really wanted to use them right away. Like many of the fun Echino fabrics, this one is printed on a cotton/linen blend. Now just to pick the accent and lining fabrics. I knew I wanted something bright to bring out the fun of the motorbikes, and when I saw the corner of this Dottie Bandana (now sold out) peek out from from my stash, I knew it would be perfect. Next was the lining: silly as it sounds, I wanted something that matched the theme of the activities I had planned with my kids. I planned “field trips” with lots of built in learning, so I already had an inkling I would choose a text fabric, and just like the Cotton + Steel, this Encyclopedia Galactica print practically jumped out at me.
Swoon Sewing Patterns Lucy Backpack in Echino Motorbikes | Happy Okapi Blog



To make the bag a bit quicker, I had already planned to skip the grommets and make a casing instead, and I was happy to find that the pattern already included that option, which made me happy since I didn’t have to do math. I also skipped the interior pocket, but I kept the back pocket and it’s perfect for my phone. The pattern has an option to use a zipper on the straps, but again, I went with the quicker, separate strap option. I will only use the bag as a backpack, so didn’t think in this case it was worth the extra steps to add the zipper.
Swoon Sewing Patterns Lucy Backpack in Echino Motorbikes | Happy Okapi Blog

As for size, I’m thrilled, it’s exactly perfect for my needs. It fits my large wallet (Necessary Clutch Wallet), keys, garage opener, extra zippered pouch (for girly stuff) and plenty of room for a water bottle and some snacks, but it’s not too big and it doesn’t weigh me down. The straps are adjustable so the bag can fit over a few layers if need be.
Swoon Sewing Patterns Lucy Backpack in Echino Motorbikes | Happy Okapi Blog



Supplies

PDF Sewing Pattern: Lucy Backpack, Swoon
1″ Adjustable Sliders and D rings: Emmaline Bags
Fusible woven interfacing and fusible fleece:  Paccana 
Thread: Rich Navy & Tea Dyed, Connecting Threads
Lining Print: Andover Encyclopedia Galactica, Hawthorne Threads
Accent and Straps: Cotton + Steel Basics Dottie Bandana, Fabric Spark (sold out)
Exterior Fabric: Echino Motorbike, Fabric Spark 
Swoon Sewing Patterns Lucy Backpack in Echino Motorbikes | Happy Okapi Blog

Did you make something for Spring Break? What inspires your fabric choices? Let me know in the comments!

Woven Filigree Double Zip Pouch

Woven panel Sew Sweetness Filigree Double Zip Pouch | Happy Okapi

Back in January, I was invited to a “sew-in” and I know myself far too well to think I’d be able to actually sew instead of talk the whole time, so I decided to start a project that required several steps before the sewing process. I chose another triaxial weave, with the tumbling blocks pattern to put on a Filigree Double-Zip Pouch. At the time, I hadn’t really thought about the colour selection too much, but being finished just in time for St. Patrick’s Day seems very fitting, doesn’t it?
Woven panel Sew Sweetness Filigree Double Zip Pouch | Happy Okapi

I used exactly the same tutorial as I did for the Blue Calla Clover panel. I blogged about the weave here, if you’re interested in links to the tutorial and tools I used. 
Hanging Cosmetics Bag

You may remember I used these fabrics before. I made the Hanging Cosmetics Bag from the Craftsy Class Sew Sturdy Travel Organizers. The fabrics are from the Amy Butler collection, Violette, for Free Spirit. I didn’t have quite enough for the body of the bag, so I used an orange from Cotton and Steel.


Woven panel Sew Sweetness Filigree Double Zip Pouch | Happy Okapi

I chose the Sew Sweetness Filigree Double Zip Pouch because I really love the freedom with the front of the pouch: it’s a clean slate, and the perfect size for a feature. I also just hosted an Instagram swap for the same pattern, and it was really fun seeing everyone do amazing things with it. 
Woven panel Sew Sweetness Filigree Double Zip Pouch | Happy Okapi